Comments on: How to install a floor using adhesive http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/ Just another WordPress site Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:56:52 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.4 By: Stu http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-3568 Stu Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:06:56 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-3568 All the info given has answered a multitude of queries. Excellent!! All the info given has answered a multitude of queries. Excellent!!

]]> By: tarkett85 http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-2660 tarkett85 Sun, 27 Feb 2011 00:47:05 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-2660 never float a solid wood it doesn't work and the guarantees are null and void. Always use an epoxy dpm on concrete and cementuous sub-floors and a quality adhesive pallmans uzin ranges are good quality as are tremco and bona, always screed the floor aswell. on a wooden subfloor same again check moisture levels in sub-floor dpm if required then board it with minimum of 9mm thick marine ply screw down every 2-3 ins then secret nail using a professional nailer. if using engineered wood which is tongue and groove same as solid wood only float if engineered and uses a clic system, don't buy solid wood with one it's useless. honestly pay a good flooring contractor who is vat registered to fit it or all guarantees are null and void anyway but you will pay roughly £22sqmtr fit on concrete, £15sqmtr fit on wood, £20sqmtr to dpm seal and £10sqmtr to board or screed, looks alot but will be cheaper than buying the tools required yourself, and the job will be done correctly. hope this helps never float a solid wood it doesn’t work and the guarantees are null and void. Always use an epoxy dpm on concrete and cementuous sub-floors and a quality adhesive pallmans uzin ranges are good quality as are tremco and bona, always screed the floor aswell. on a wooden subfloor same again check moisture levels in sub-floor dpm if required then board it with minimum of 9mm thick marine ply screw down every 2-3 ins then secret nail using a professional nailer. if using engineered wood which is tongue and groove same as solid wood only float if engineered and uses a clic system, don’t buy solid wood with one it’s useless. honestly pay a good flooring contractor who is vat registered to fit it or all guarantees are null and void anyway but you will pay roughly £22sqmtr fit on concrete, £15sqmtr fit on wood, £20sqmtr to dpm seal and £10sqmtr to board or screed, looks alot but will be cheaper than buying the tools required yourself, and the job will be done correctly. hope this helps

]]> By: Richard Addae http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-191 Richard Addae Mon, 08 Nov 2010 08:54:25 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-191 Just want to find out with the glue down and floating method by use of under or ply which one is best for concrete sub floor. Just want to find out with the glue down and floating method by use of under or ply which one is best for concrete sub floor.

]]> By: Richard Addae http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-190 Richard Addae Mon, 08 Nov 2010 08:50:54 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-190 Just want to fine out with the floating and glue down methods which one is best for laying solid oak floor on concrete sub base. Just want to fine out with the floating and glue down methods which one is best for laying solid oak floor on concrete sub base.

]]> By: admin http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-189 admin Wed, 25 Aug 2010 09:03:10 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-189 <blockquote cite="#comment-body-47954"> <strong><a href="#comment-47954" rel="nofollow">ANDS</a> :</strong><DIV class=avatar><IMG class="avatar avatar-64 photo" alt="" src="http://www.gravatar.com/avatar/91ccd5f889f2fb5fafc18c5f2805fc1c?s=64&d=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gravatar.com%2Favatar%2Fad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536%3Fs%3D64&r=G" width=64 height=64></DIV> <P>Hi<BR>We have just had a solid floor fitted. It has been floated and glued together.. however not fixed to the floor. It has been layed on underlay. Will this cause problems. Should it have been nailed or glued to the floorboards?</P><a id=comment-reply-47954 rel="nofollow"></A></blockquote> Hi, As a general rule, solid wood floorboards are recommended to be glued or nailed down directly to the sub-floor. However there are many installations which are not fixed in this way. Gluing / nailing is the preferred option as it helps keep the boards stable but this does not mean you are going to have problems with it. Many floors will be fine, especially when you have had the correct expansion gaps left as this allows the boards to expand and contract without lifting. Hope this helps

ANDS :

Hi
We have just had a solid floor fitted. It has been floated and glued together.. however not fixed to the floor. It has been layed on underlay. Will this cause problems. Should it have been nailed or glued to the floorboards?

Hi,
As a general rule, solid wood floorboards are recommended to be glued or nailed down directly to the sub-floor. However there are many installations which are not fixed in this way. Gluing / nailing is the preferred option as it helps keep the boards stable but this does not mean you are going to have problems with it. Many floors will be fine, especially when you have had the correct expansion gaps left as this allows the boards to expand and contract without lifting.

Hope this helps

]]> By: ANDS http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-188 ANDS Sat, 21 Aug 2010 10:53:27 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-188 Hi We have just had a solid floor fitted. It has been floated and glued together.. however not fixed to the floor. It has been layed on underlay. Will this cause problems. Should it have been nailed or glued to the floorboards? Hi
We have just had a solid floor fitted. It has been floated and glued together.. however not fixed to the floor. It has been layed on underlay. Will this cause problems. Should it have been nailed or glued to the floorboards?

]]> By: admin http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-187 admin Fri, 09 Apr 2010 15:05:21 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-187 It is possible to tighten the existing flooring - the best thing is to screw down all the loose boards rather than nail so they will not come loose againl. If you are gluing down directly to your sub floor or nailing the new floor down you do not need any thing in betwee. You can use the felt if nailing the floor down but you will not use any thing on the floor if gluing down. The sealer will be fine to use for domestic purposes - it will be very hard wearing but I think that is what you are looking for anyway. It is possible to tighten the existing flooring – the best thing is to screw down all the loose boards rather than nail so they will not come loose againl.
If you are gluing down directly to your sub floor or nailing the new floor down you do not need any thing in betwee. You can use the felt if nailing the floor down but you will not use any thing on the floor if gluing down.
The sealer will be fine to use for domestic purposes – it will be very hard wearing but I think that is what you are looking for anyway.

]]> By: Jim http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-186 Jim Sat, 03 Apr 2010 05:53:13 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-186 Question: I have purchased floating wood flooring for a house that has existing hardwood flooring in it. Can I tighten the existing floor and then glue or nail the flooring (without the padding) to the existing floor, possibly laying 15# felt over the existing floor? I had previously purchased some flooring sealer that is used on bowling lanes, basketball courts, etc. and would prefer a sealed floor over a floating floor. We have inside dogs and very young grandkids! Thanx!! Question: I have purchased floating wood flooring for a house that has existing hardwood flooring in it. Can I tighten the existing floor and then glue or nail the flooring (without the padding) to the existing floor, possibly laying 15# felt over the existing floor? I had previously purchased some flooring sealer that is used on bowling lanes, basketball courts, etc. and would prefer a sealed floor over a floating floor. We have inside dogs and very young grandkids!
Thanx!!

]]> By: Fatty http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-185 Fatty Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:16:56 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-185 Pat Seal the floor with a liquid epoxy DPM first to be sure that that you don't have an issue. Fatty Pat
Seal the floor with a liquid epoxy DPM first to be sure that that you don’t have an issue.
Fatty

]]> By: Pat Higgins http://www.woodfloorblog.co.uk/floor-fitting/how-to-install-a-floor-using-adhesive/#comment-184 Pat Higgins Wed, 09 Dec 2009 10:06:58 +0000 http://www.woodfloorblog.com/?p=67#comment-184 Just bought a lovely engineered 190mil wide board with a 6mil wear layer. New house, with UFH and laying direct onto subfloor. I am considering gluing straight to the subfloor. Floors have been in since early Aug and heating turned on early Sep with a gradual increase to full working temp (approx 26oC). I tried the old bin liner taped to the subfloor for 24hours to check for moisture build up. There was none that I could see. I guess I want to know what are the likely pitfalls for me. Do I NEED an underlay? Should I avoid gluing straight to the subfloor? Will the floor be dry enough? Will an underlay of good quality affect the performance of my UFH significantly? Apologies for the raft of questions but trying to cover all bases!!! Many thanks, Pat Just bought a lovely engineered 190mil wide board with a 6mil wear layer. New house, with UFH and laying direct onto subfloor. I am considering gluing straight to the subfloor. Floors have been in since early Aug and heating turned on early Sep with a gradual increase to full working temp (approx 26oC). I tried the old bin liner taped to the subfloor for 24hours to check for moisture build up. There was none that I could see. I guess I want to know what are the likely pitfalls for me. Do I NEED an underlay? Should I avoid gluing straight to the subfloor? Will the floor be dry enough? Will an underlay of good quality affect the performance of my UFH significantly? Apologies for the raft of questions but trying to cover all bases!!!

Many thanks,

Pat

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