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Wood floor refurbishment of Notley Abbey

Oct 14

Posted by admin in Wood flooring | No Comments

The mission was to bring out the best in the existing oak wooden floor of Notley Abbey. The wood floor was repaired and the surface was refinished.

This medieval country residence is a popular and stylish wedding venue. Notley Abbey is regularly used for both small and big weddings. In its Banqueting Hall 190 people can be seated. Ceremonies are held both inside and outside.

The oak flooring was refinished with Bona Oil 90 as it gives a warm lustre to the surface. This easy to apply Bona Oil is based on pine oil. It dies quickly. The further maintenance of this refurbished floor will be easy. It can be cleaned by Bona Soap and Bona Oil 25. Proper maintenance always extends the durability and longevity of any flooring. This is especially true for wood floor maintenance.

Innovative solution: the whisky flooring

Sep 22

Posted by admin in Wood flooring | No Comments

20,000 whisky barrels are sent to landfills every year. Why would the whisky industry want to waste the good wood of the barrels? Using old Scotch whisky barrels for wood floors is a real eco-friendly solution. So whisky flooring was born.

The beautiful oak wood of the whisky casks was turned into a unique recycled wood flooring product by McKay Flooring. This flooring is unique and it looks unique as you can see the history of the barrels after these become floors. There are brandings of manufacturers and marks by coopers and distilleries left to see. There is a great interest in this flooring from all over the world.

As a customer you might be asking if this flooring retains the aroma of the whisky that was in the barrels. The answer is yes, you could get the smell of oak and vanilla if you pressed your nose against these boards.

Check out the oak flooring collection at Real Oak Floors now!

How to get rid of squeaky floors

Sep 6

Posted by admin in Flooring, Wood flooring | No Comments

When it comes to wood floors in your home, you might find them at some point starting to squeak, you will mainly find this on stairs. Now other than the annoying sounds they create, a squeaky hardwood floor can indicate more under laying problems. Floor squeaking is a sign that some gapping has occurred between the hardwood boards and as a result of the wood drying out and shrinking over time. When these dried out floorboards are walked on, they rub against one another and a squeaking noise is produced. While the damage to the floor might not be visually apparent, the tell tale squeak will give it away.

It is important that you tend to these squeaky floorboards as soon as you can, because not doing so could cause your home to depreciate in value over time.

Methods to Prevent Squeaky Floors

Lubrication:

Sprinkle some talcum powder of some powdered graphite, (this is available at hardware stores or on the internet), make sure you place it along the seams of the floorboards. You will then want to cover the powder with a cloth and step on the boards. This will ensure that the powder will work its way into the seams. The powder should then provide enough lubrication to keep the boards from rubbing against one another. This though is only a temporary solution.

If you have access to the underside of the floor

Another tactic you can use is to check the cross bracing (this is when boards are nailed diagonally across studs or other boards to make the framework more rigid) between the floor joists, if it’s loose then reattach it using screws. Also place shims on top of the floor joists directly under your floorboards. Then firmly but very carefully push the shims in. You may also want to fasten the floor joists with screws driven in at an angle through the floor joist to the subfloor.

If you don’t have access the underside of the floor

Install 2” or 2 ½” flooring nails at least ½ inch from the edges of the floorboard and drive them in at an angle. You will also want to pre-drill holes slightly smaller than the nail shanks through the floorboards (make sure you don’t go through the subfloor). This will ensure that there is a good hold and prevents the floorboards from splitting. You will then want to use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the floor surface; you can then fill the holes using colour matched wood filler. You may also use screws instead of nails if you prefer, over time screws generally hold better than nails. Countersink (this is the process of making the head of a screw or bolt sink into a prepared depression, this ensures that it is flush with or below the surface of the floor) the screws and patch the holes with wood floor filler.

If you have carpet over your hardwood floor

You will want to roll the carpet back to access the floorboards. If this isn’t an option you can hold the boards together by nailing through the carpet. A stud finder can help you located under laying joists to drive your nails through. Don’t attempt this with screws as they will just end up being tangled up in your carpet.

A squeaky floor is not match for a gang of nails and screws, but any of the above methods should get rid of the squeaking. Of course you should consult a professional for their advice on the gapping that is occurring.

What is the best flooring for playrooms

Sep 4

Posted by admin in Laminate Flooring, Solid Wood Flooring, Wood flooring, vinyl flooring | No Comments

When it comes to your children you might be thinking about making a playroom for them. Flooring in a playroom is not always dependent upon factors such as space, size or house and income. You will also want your kids to enjoy the flooring in their playroom so you may be tempted with the most cost effective, child friendly, colourful designs and types of flooring. Therefore different types of flooring will have their own advantages when it comes to look and feel.

Carpet tiles and carpet are the most popular choice when it comes to playroom flooring. This is because they are cheap, easy to lay and durable. Carpets with colour will also help disguise any stains, and in most cases will be preferred by your children. When it comes to carpet tile the best one to use is nylon, this is because it is one of the best resistors of stamping feet, and it is also long lasting and quite strong. When it comes to your child’s safety the soft surface will cause less damage if your child falls or slips.

Vinyl flooring is also another option, and is increasingly growing in popularity. Its surface makes it easy to clean spillages and is also padded; this means that it will be more comfortable for your younger children who like to crawl about or for children who are susceptible to falling down often. Vinyl flooring also allows you to choose fun designs that your children may like, which means they could even help with the choice of flooring design they want. Popular designs include roads and towns.

Hardwood flooring adds some structural strength to your floor. It also lasts for a lifetime, which means it will be there to help as your children grow up. It can also match your interior design across the rest of the room or house. Because of the structural strength you will not need to worry about any falling objects or stability as its hard surface allows for greater safety.

Laminate Flooring may well be the best option when it comes to wooden flooring. It is not only easy to clean and cheap but it can also be laid down by yourself. It is also durable enough to withstand the dropping of toys or heavy stamping. It can also accommodate mats or rugs easily which can also provide another safety element. The colour variations can also be child friendly. Due to the fact that laminate flooring is hard pressed together it can also survive and wear and tear that is likely to occur.

Solid wood flooring is great for allergies as it prevents any dust from gathering. It is also easily installed and lasts a life time. It can also adapt to its surroundings during seasonal changes; it is also great at insulating your room, keeping it warm during the winter months.

When it comes to selecting the flooring for your child’s playroom there a several things to consider. It needs to be long lasting, it also needs to be child friendly, relatively colourful and comfortable, protect your child’s health when it comes to allergy protection, it also needs to be able to withstand heavy objects and protect your children from accidents. If the flooring is cheap and easy to self install then you might find yourself opting for flooring that incorporates all of these features and there are plenty of excellent choices to choose from.

Wood Flooring vs Carpet

Sep 2

Posted by admin in Flooring, Wood flooring | No Comments

When it comes down to making sure your home is as eco friendly as possible can be sometimes down to just the type of flooring you choose.

The old debate about whether it is better to have a carpet or use wood flooring is still around, but quite often the need for a “wow” factor in any room more often than not can be the major factor when it comes to decided, rather than if it can save you any money on your monthly heating bill.

These days carpet are become increasingly out dated with more and more home owners choosing solid wood flooring, this is due to the increasing variety on the market to choose from. Wood flooring can also be bought in a variety of colours, this can add warmth and texture to your room, with the flooring quality getting better over time it also adds character and value to your home.

Everybody loves the feeling of soft carpet underneath their feet, but there are a few things that we need to consider when it comes to choosing a carpet over wood flooring. Apart from the fact it attracts dirt and dust mites they can very quickly become unattractive if they are not taken care of correctly, and those with children might want to consider the wear and tear the carpet could receive.

If keeping your rooms warm is one of the main factors that you use for deciding against wood flooring, then you need to think again. With the state of the art under floor heating systems that are now available, it is possible to save money and keep your house warm.

The only way you can do this is if you install wood flooring, and it is also becoming the perfect way to have a low maintenance heating system in your home. Due to the fact that under floor heating is so simple there is no working and the chances of it breaking down or failing is minimal.

In conclusion to this we can clearly see that the argument is leaning greatly in favour of wood flooring, with is bonuses of being economical, better looking, easier to maintain and makes no difference to your home heating.
For some great examples of wood flooring take a look at these links:
Hardwood flooring
Solid wood flooring

UV Finishes for Wood Flooring

Jun 12

Posted by admin in Flooring, Wood flooring | No Comments

Wood finishes have come a long way in the last decade.
The original finishes on flooring would be a choice between a factory lacquer, a natural (usually Danish) oil or a wax – both of which needed to be applied after the floor was installed which would add an extra couple of days onto the whole process of getting a new floor.

The Lacquered floors were a very smooth clean finish, however they scratched easily and could often look worn in a short amount of time due to scuff marks which took off the top layer of lacquer. In more recent years the factory finish lacquers have improved greatly so the finish is much more durable, it is also now available in silk matt, gloss or matt sheens which give different looks to the boards.

Natural oil is a well known finish for wood floors, however it has always been known as a “back breaking” process as the oil needs to be worked into the floor, often by hand if done by the homeowner, which would be a long laborious process for most. This was also the same for the wax finish which also required buffing afterwards to give the floor a sheen. Luckily, these two process have been refined to create a much easier to apply finish.

The most recent finish to the market is the UV cured finish. It is available for both lacquered and oiled floors and was originally brought on to the market for the manufacturers to speed up the drying process of the wood floor finishes, as the flooring could be packaged straight away.

Here we will explain the UV oil finish.
The UV oils have a natural oiled finish to them – this is in part to the fact that they are made from a natural oil. The natural oil is mixed with a chemical which, when combined together, become instantly curable under a UV light source.

The combination of the chemical creates a scratch resistant floor – much higher resistant compared to a natural oiled floor. It will also last longer than a naturally oiled floor although the UV oiled flooring will need more maintenance due to the open pore character of the oil.

It is also possible to spot repair a UV oiled floor due to this open pore character – it means that the wood can still breathe like a natural oiled floor so the coating over the top will blend with the original UV oil finish.
As with standard wooden flooring oils, the UV oil is available in a choice of different colours from pale, white tones to dark, even black looking finishes. It can also be applied to all types of timber, from oak, walnut to Maple and even pine. There is also a choice of sheens for the UV oils – matt finish, silk matt and gloss are all available in the whole range so your floor can be finished to your specifications more than a natural oiled floor.
Real Oak Floors has its own manufacturing line which includes a UV finishing system meaning that all the floors available in the collections can be UV oiled on request.

Ever Though About Bamboo Flooring?

Feb 28

Posted by admin in Flooring, Wood flooring | 1 Comment

Today I am going to temp your interest with bamboo flooring. First I am going to tell you a bit about it.

Bamboo is a type of grass, but not like normal grass, you may be thinking “Grass?…grass is soft and brittle and it’s used for flooring?” Well that would incorrect. Bamboo is very strong, enough so that it is used for construction and houses etc. It also makes for a very nice looking floor once finished. Bamboo is very resilient and flexible, making it the material of choice for many.
bamboo flooring
The installation of bamboo flooring does not require any special. In fact, there are several ways you can lay it: You can float them, nail them down, or glue them on. Bamboo is also easier to produce as flooring than oak because it only takes around three years for it to mature, as opposed to oak which can take up to a hundred years to be fully mature.

As bamboo is a grass we cannot call it a hardwood floor, however, it can last as long as the standard hardwoods we have around, so that’s probably why most people mistake it as such.

To make a flat, solid floor, the bamboo tubes are cut into strips. These are then these are boiled to strip the starch away. The boiled strips proceed to the drying and lamination process, and then milled to become strip floor boards. This is the same process that hardwoods like maple or oak go through. Finally, the strips are treated using a preservative to slow down decay.

There is something about bamboo floors that gives a room an ethnic and earthy feel. Because hardwoods like oak are rather dark and, thus, look too rich and heavy, using bamboo as your flooring makes your space appear lighter, airier, and less contrived.
bamboo flooring natural

Wood Floors and Dogs – Dog Proof Your Floor

Feb 11

Posted by admin in Flooring, Wood flooring | 1 Comment

Do you own a dog which is putting you off solid wood flooring? Never fear, here are some top tips for dog proofing your flooring.
Dog on a floor
* When your dog comes home from a walk in the park make sure to clean the bottom of all four paws so that the dirt wont ruin or mark the floor.

* It may be funny to watch your lovely doggie sliding around the wood flooring while trying to get footing but will probably just result in scratches – keep the antics and fun outside or ina non wood room.

* Apply a thick layer of clear coating to the boards, this is more for protection of the wood, in contrast to using floor wax which will help the dog get a grip and minimise the reaction to “claw in” tot he wood.

* Keep nails trimmed short to avoid scratches and scuffs in general.

* If there is an area the dog frequents between consider placing rugs etc to help the dog walk more easily.

* Choose distressed flooring, if scratching does occur it wont stand out, in fact it will fit right in with the style.

* If you keep your dog bowls on the floor like most people do then use a mat underneath to protect from the inevitable spills and slobber that will surround the area. Something moisture proof is preferable.

There you have it, one more reason to encourage your purchase of a good wood floor for your home. You will love it and so will the dogs.

Floating Installations – For Multi-Layer Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Nov 16

Posted by admin in Engineered Wood Flooring, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | 2 Comments

This product is suitable for laying over underfloor heating systems.  Please contact us for technical information prior to laying.

PRE-INSTALLATION

To keep the wood in excellent condition it is imperative that the humidity level be controlled at all times, from delivery to laying the floor and during the years that follow installation.

The optimal humidity range for hardwood flooring is 45 – 60%; temperature should be maintained at about 18◦C.

Flooring should never be stored outdoors, on a cement floor, in a garage or in any damp conditions.  Care should be taken to store the wood flat; packs should never be lent against a wall.  Pre-finished boards should be left in the packaging in the room where it is to be laid until you are ready to lay the floor P(at least overnight).  Unfinished flooring packs should be open and the boards spread around the room in which they are to be laid for at least 5 days.

In a new construction all windows and doors etc should be installed and all wet trades should be completed.  Where a new concrete slab has been laid, the moisture content must not exceed 5 and the humidity level of the building must not exceed 60%.

Due to the variety of installations we can only generalise.  We would always recommend that the floor layer satisfy themselves of the suitability of the conditions before laying the floor.

Do not lay the flooring in areas that are wet or humid eg. Bathrooms, shower rooms etc

It should also be remembered that the floor layer is the last person to inspect the flooring.  Care should be taken to ensure that a balanced look is maintained when laying out the floor; any pieces that are suspect should not be laid. The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for defects due to incorrect installation or boards with defects that have been installed.  A waste factor of between 5 – 10% should be taken into account.

As a general rule we recommend at least 12 – 18mm expansion around the perimeter of the room and at doorways.  At least 12 – 18mm expansion must also be left where the floor comes into contact with any other vertical surfaces.  These expansion gaps can be covered by mouldings after installation.

In areas where the engineered flooring comes into contact with a fireplace, stove, heating system or un-insulated hot air vents a layer of asphalt or wax paper should be laid first.  This will prevent excess drying out of the wood flooring.

POST INSTALLATION

The appearance of spaces between boards indicates a drying out of the wood and an insufficient degree of humidity.

The appearance of waves or noticeable swelling in the finish of the wood flooring indicates the presence of excessive humidity.  Heating systems may have to be utilised throughout the year to maintain the correct humidity level.  The installation of a humidifier or an air exchange system can prove indispensable in controlling humidity.

Above all don’t forget that wood is a natural, living material and that we must look after it for life.  A proper maintenance program should always be carried out.

Barrier matting should be placed at all exterior doorways.

Remember that pets running around, stiletto heels and dirt and grit left on the floor can scratch wood; regular maintenance should be carried out to prevent this.

For full maintenance guidelines please refer to the individual maintenance guidelines that apply to the finish of your floor.

To help installation, the following tools are required:

Saw

PVA adhesive

Hammer

Tape measure

Pencil

Professional knocking block

Professional pull bar

Drill

Wedges

T square

1.       Ensure that the subfloor is sound, level and free of debris.  Cover the area with an appropriate underlay as recommended by Real Oak Floors.  If fitting over existing floorboards ensure that they are fixed solidly, this will avoid creaking.

2.       Lay out the first board ensuring the groove is towards the wall.  Place a wedge between the end of the boards and the wall, this will ensure that you have an expansion gap (minimum 12mm).  Complete the first line of boards, do not glue the boards at this stage.

3.       Turn over the last board of the first row, its tongue facing the tongue of the preceding board.   Mark the cutting line on the back of the board and cut to length.  Fit the board without glue.

4.       It is important that the boards follow the line of the wall.  If the wall is not square, make a line parallel to the wall and cut the board accordingly.

5.       Lay out the boards along the wall (groove facing the wall) and insert wedges between the boards and the walls.  PVA adhesive should be put into the groove on the header joints (end of the board).  The final board will need to be fitted using a pull bar; this should be fitted over the end of the board and then tapped into place.

6.       Providing the off cut from the first row is at least 300mm in length, this should now be used to start the second row.  Care should be taken that the header joints are staggered across the floor.

7.       A continuous bead of PVA adhesive should be placed on the upper edge of the groove on the board; the header joint should also be glued.  Join the boards by placing the tongue into the groove of the previous board; ensuring that the header joint is closed, they should now be knocked home with the use of a knocking block.  The knocking block should be used on the tongue in a flicking action.  Hold one end of the block against the board, the other should be at an angle of aprox 45 degrees away from the board.  Flick the block against the tongue with a sharp action, this will knock the board up; continue down the full length of the board, if necessary tap the board home using a hammer on the knocking block.  Continue across the floor making sure to clean any PVA adhesive off the face of the floor with a damp cloth.

8.       Wherever there is a central heating pipe or anything else that protrudes from the floor, place a board into the next row, take exact measurements and mark the sections to be cut on the back of the board.

9.       Drill or cut out the area needed, remembering to leave an expansion gap.

10.   Cut the board at an angle of 45◦.

11.   Apply PVA adhesive to the edges of the cut board and fit into place.  Care should be taken to leave an expansion gap between the board and the wall.

12.   Door frames and other wooden elements should be sawn off to allow the board to slide underneath.

13.   To calculate the exact width of the last board, lay the board over the last but one line of boards (tongue facing the wall).  Place another board face down over the board to be cut, remembering to leave the expansion gap, mark the board to be cut.

14.   Place the last line in place and knock up using a professional pull bar.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES

It is important to leave expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room, in doorways between rooms and at all vertical surfaces.

Perimeter of the Room

If the skirting board has not been removed, the expansion gap can be covered using a scotia or quadrant moulding.

Doorways

At doorways the floor should be broken with an expansion gap.  The expansion gap should be covered with a twin or ramp moulding.  This will allow individual rooms to expand and contract within their own Areas.  Which moulding to use is determined by the floor covering on the other side of the doorway,.  Floors equal in height should use a threshold T bar or flat Threshold, if floors have differing heights a ramp should be used.

Pipes, Vents and other fixed objects

Each can be unique, but the general rule is to measure very carefully before you cut and remember to leave a 12 – 18mm expansion gap between the object and the flooring.  Cover the expansion gap with mouldings, vent covers or pipe rings when the floor is complete.

Installations on stairs

Flooring on stairs must be fully nailed to the stairs.  Stair nosing mouldings should be installed suing either screw type fasteners or nails.

10 ways to maintain your wood flooring

May 5

Posted by admin in Flooring, News, Solid Wood Flooring, Wood Floor Blog, Wood Flooring Accessories, Wood flooring | 15 Comments

Some of the most common questions we get asked at the wood floor blog are asking how to maintain the look of a floor, so we decided to put together some tips on keeping your floor in prime condition for you to enjoy for years to come.

  • Don’t let spills settle on your flooring. Fluids aren’t generally the thing you would want to keep on your hardwood floor, if you leave fluid on the floor for a prolonged period of time this will cause water spots. If there are any spillages clean up the fluids straight away using an absorbent cloth.
  • Always try to follow the floor manufacturer’s recommendations when possible and try to sweep daily, always using a soft fine bristled broom. Sweeping is an important part of maintaining a wooden floor and sweeping daily will help keep things off the floor which may cause scratching.
  • Make sure that you know the type of finish on your wooden floor and follow the correct maintenance procedures for them e.g. Never wax a urethane floor instead use only a very dry damp cloth (to avoid water damage)
  • Place glides (furniture guards/pads) under any furniture on your wooden flooring to avoid scratching the floor underneath. Also place mats at every entrance to prevent people from walking in dirt and grit onto your floor
  • Vacuum regularly, try to vacuum at least 2 times a week to get the loose dirt which may have been missed, please be cautious however as hard plastic and stiff bristles can scratch the finish on your floor.
  • Try to avoid wearing heavy shoes, high heels and sports shoes on your flooring as these can cause dents and indentations on your floor. Also children’s toys can cause damage to your floor, a prime example are racing cars which can scratch the flooring.
  • Don’t over-wax a wax floor, if your floor dulls and you want to restore its shine you may want to invest in a buffer. However it may be best to get suggestions from the floor manufacturer for the specific procedures for your floor.
  • Clean up pet mess quickly, keep food dishes on a mat and keep their nails trimmed to avoid any stains and scratches.
  • Mop regularly using a dry damp mop adding cleaner to the water (we personally recommend the Bona range of cleaners as their quality is fantastic)
  • Cover the floor when decorating so any dropped screws or paint wont damage your flooring, also, when moving heavy furniture slip a piece of cloth or pile under the legs to avoid any scuffing and scratching.

We hope that these tips help you and answer any questions you may have, if you still have any queries please contact us or leave a comment below and we’ll answer any queries to the best of our abilities.