Archive for category Flooring

10 ways to maintain your wood flooring

Some of the most common questions we get asked at the wood floor blog are asking how to maintain the look of a floor, so we decided to put together some tips on keeping your floor in prime condition for you to enjoy for years to come.

  • Don’t let spills settle on your flooring. Fluids aren’t generally the thing you would want to keep on your hardwood floor, if you leave fluid on the floor for a prolonged period of time this will cause water spots. If there are any spillages clean up the fluids straight away using an absorbent cloth.
  • Always try to follow the floor manufacturer’s recommendations when possible and try to sweep daily, always using a soft fine bristled broom. Sweeping is an important part of maintaining a wooden floor and sweeping daily will help keep things off the floor which may cause scratching.
  • Make sure that you know the type of finish on your wooden floor and follow the correct maintenance procedures for them e.g. Never wax a urethane floor instead use only a very dry damp cloth (to avoid water damage)
  • Place glides (furniture guards/pads) under any furniture on your wooden flooring to avoid scratching the floor underneath. Also place mats at every entrance to prevent people from walking in dirt and grit onto your floor
  • Vacuum regularly, try to vacuum at least 2 times a week to get the loose dirt which may have been missed, please be cautious however as hard plastic and stiff bristles can scratch the finish on your floor.
  • Try to avoid wearing heavy shoes, high heels and sports shoes on your flooring as these can cause dents and indentations on your floor. Also children’s toys can cause damage to your floor, a prime example are racing cars which can scratch the flooring.
  • Don’t over-wax a wax floor, if your floor dulls and you want to restore its shine you may want to invest in a buffer. However it may be best to get suggestions from the floor manufacturer for the specific procedures for your floor.
  • Clean up pet mess quickly, keep food dishes on a mat and keep their nails trimmed to avoid any stains and scratches.
  • Mop regularly using a dry damp mop adding cleaner to the water (we personally recommend the Bona range of cleaners as their quality is fantastic)
  • Cover the floor when decorating so any dropped screws or paint wont damage your flooring, also, when moving heavy furniture slip a piece of cloth or pile under the legs to avoid any scuffing and scratching.

We hope that these tips help you and answer any questions you may have, if you still have any queries please contact us or leave a comment below and we’ll answer any queries to the best of our abilities.

Popularity: 11% [?]

A guide to the installation of Junckers

Suitable Products

20.5mm, 22mm and 14mm clip system floors

22mm and 20.5mm – sports, commercial and domestic

14mm – domestic, light-duty commercial


Please follow these simple instructions

We are concerned that your floor is a success and provides you with many years of trouble free service. Wood is a natural material and is, therefore, subject to infinite variations in colour, texture, knots and grain patterns. Natural timber also contains characteristics which are not found inman-made materials such as surface splits, shakes etc., and sometimes filling is necessary. These are accepted as being normal features of many of our products and are not detrimental to the performance of the floor.

Wood is a hygroscopic material. Changes in humidity will cause natural expansion and contraction of the floor. Small gaps may occur. Details given in this brochure are also shown in the Junckers T I system available in CD Rom version or on the Junckers internet site at www.junckers.com

Also see information sheets, Ref: C2.1.1, C5.1.1 and C3.1.1

Stage 1

Before, During and After installation – A dry environment

In the area where the floor is to be stored and laid, conditions must be the same as expected when the area will be in use. The room must be weathertight, heating system in operation and wet trades (eg. plaster and cement) must be fully dry. Any damp problems must be remedied first.
The relative humidity of the air should remain between 35% – 65% RH. Heating and/or ventilation may be necessary to maintain conditions. This is especially important in newly built or renovated properties, or those which may remain unoccupied for some time after the floor is laid.

The floor should be delivered as near as possible to the time when it is to be laid. The polythene wrapping is left intact during storage and the flooring must not be allowed to “acclimatise”. The polythene wrapping is not waterproof and must not be considered to be protection against damp. Packs can be opened for inspection upon delivery, but should be resealed until the time of fixing.

Fig 1

Stage 2

Sub-floors – General notes and preparation

Junckers Clip System Floors can be laid upon most types of dry, level sub-floor, including sand and cement screed, and timber such as floor boards, chipboard etc.
Sand and cement screeds

Screed

Fig 1

These must be flat and fully dry. This means the moisture content must be maximum 5% or 75% Relative Humidity. (Fig. 1). On ground and all cementitious floors, a surface moisture barrier of Junckers SylvaThene polythene, Sisalkraft Moistop 728 or PolyLay must be laid with the joints well lapped and taped, and turned up at the walls. The screed must be levelled to a tolerance of no more than a 3mm gap showing under a 3m straight edge. A self-levelling compound may help to achieve this tolerance if the base is found to be uneven. (Fig. 1).

Timber sub-floors

These may be floor boards, chipboard, ply or similar. Ensure the floor has adequate protection against damp from below. If the floor is on joists, ensure the void below is ventilated to building regulation standards. Air-bricks must not be blocked. The moisture content of the timber base must be 12%–14%. It must be soundly fixed and flat. The base must be levelled to no more than a 3mm gap showing beneath a 3m straight edge. If the base is unlevel, it is sometimes possible to achieve a flat surface by sanding or securely nailing down plywood of sufficient thickness.

Mixed sub-floors

Junckers Clip System floors can be laid onto a base made from more than one material eg. part screed, part timber. Clip System Floors may be laid onto polystyrene insulation, with a moisture membrane underneath. No additional underlay should be necessary. Polystyrene must be tongue and groove jointed and have a minimum density of 20kg/m3 for 22mm and 20.5mm floors, and 40kg/m3 for 14mm floors.

Stage 3

Choosing underlays

The range of underlays is as follows:

For 22mm, 20.5mm and 14mm floors PolyLay An underlay and moisture barrier. 1.5mm thick for use in domestic and commercial installations. Offers good step sound absorption and cushioning. 2mm For commercial or domestic floors SylvaFoam laid onto timber sub-floors and 2mm where a moderate amount of shock SylvaFelt absorption is required. Additional moisture barrier is necessary if laid onto cementitious floors.

For 22mm and 20.5mm floors 5mm Sports or multi-use applications MultiFoam where good shock absorption is needed. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. 10mm Sports floors where a floor fully ProFoam complying with standards BS7044 Part 4 and DIN 18032 Part 2 is required. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. Note: With underfloor heating systems, a second layer of Junckers Sylvathene is also required. See separate Guide E4.1.

Selecting the correct size of clip

Three Clip sizes are available, each to suit the humidity level expected when the building will be in use. Select the Clip size using the table below.

Site Conditions Relative Humidity Label Colour Clip Type Clip Size
Dry, well heated constant conditions 35-50% Green One Hole 129.1mm
Mostly well heated, some fluctuations 45-65% Yellow Two Holes 129.4mm
Intermittently / rarely heated 60-90% Mauve Three Holes 129.8mm

CLIP CONSUMPTION

Domestic installations: 13 clips per m2
Commercial and Sports installations: 17 clips per m2
Wide Board Range Floors (20.5mm): 17 clips per m2

Stage 4

Expansion allowances

Gaps will be necessary around the floor’s perimeter and ALL fixed points. (Fig. 2).

Gaps at “A” must be left empty. For 22mm and 20.5mm floors, these gaps must be 2mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm. For 14mm floors, 3mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm.
Gaps at board ends, B, are to be filled with Junckers Cork or Rubber Strip, ensure the strips are a close fit in the gaps. The size of these gaps to be 1mm for every metre of floor length, minimum 10mm at each end. The gaps and strips are usually covered with a skirting, quadrant or scotia moulding, available from Junckers.

See also “Edge Details and Other Tips”.

Fig 2

Fig 2

Stage 5

Installing the floor

When installing a surface moisture barrier, ensure the sub-floor is free from loose particles.

Fig 3

Fig 3

Unroll the moisture barrier and extend it up the walls just over the finished height of the skirting. (To be trimmed off after the skirtings are fixed). (Fig. 3). Ensure the moisture content of the cementitious base is less than 5%. It is not possible to cover up a damp problem with a moisture barrier. It will protect the Junckers floor from residual moisture only. For SylvaThene and Sisalkraft, edges must be lapped by 100mm and taped with Junckers Waterpoof Tape. Sisalkraft is placed black side downwards. The underlay is then placed over this. There is no need to fix the underlay or moisture barrier to the base. PolyLay is laid felt side downwards with the polythene edges lapped. No additional moisture barrier should be necessary.
Laying the first row of boards

See Figures 4 (Domestic) and 5 (Sports and Commercial Floors). Use temporary spacer blocks to form the correct size expansion gap between the wall and the first board. Note: these must be removed upon completion.

Fig 4

Fig 4

Note Clip spacings in Figs 4 and 5.

Fig 5

Fig 5

If the wall is not straight, it may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to suit. Check the expansion gap can easily be covered. With a hammer, tap the correct end of the Clip into the groove on the back of the board. This is the end with the holes. The plain end of the Clip must point towards the board’s tongue, as shown in Fig 6.

Fig 6

Fig 6

Note: take care to align the Clip correctly before hammering.

One firm tap with the hammer is usually necessary. Excessive or repeated hammer blows may cause the Clips to become loose. Note: The Clips and boards must NEVER be fixed directly to the sub-floor! Lay the board in place, tongue pointing away from the wall. Continue to the end of the row, cutting the last board to length. The offcut will be used later. All board header (end) joints must be glued with Junckers SylvaFix Adhesive. Excess adhesive must be wiped from the surface with a damp cloth (Fig. 7).

Never apply glue to the long joints (except last board – see below).

Fig 7

Fig 7

Second and subsequent rows

The off-cut from one row of boards is then used to begin the next row. Ensure the board and stave (strip) end joints are staggered to produce a random strip pattern. They must not fall into line on adjacent boards (Fig. 8). Ensure the stave ends on adjoining boards are no closer than 80mm and header (board end) joints are no closer than 250mm. When tapping Clips into the new board, take care to ensure they are no closer than 50mm to the Clips on the last row.

Fig 8

Fig 8

To lay subsequent rows of boards, fit the Clips as before and offer the tongue and groove together. Using a wooden block, (or installation kit for 14mm floors), gently tap the joint together, working evenly along the board, taking care not to put weight upon the new board until the joint is nearly closed. Moderate downward pressure will then push the Clips home. With some types of Clip it is normal for there to be small gaps between the boards. The last row of boards will probably require cutting to width to fit. This row is glued along the tongue and groove joint only if a Clip cannot be fixed and is the only board to be glued this way. Do not forget to leave the appropriate clear expansion gap. Use a joint puller to fully close the joint (Fig. 9).

Fig 9

Fig 9

Finishing the job

Remove all temporary wooden spacers at the perimeter.

Edge details and other tips

1. The Perimeter Gaps can usually be covered with Junckers skirting, scotia or quadrant. These are usually nailed, screwed or glued to the wall or existing skirting. Large installations such as sports halls, due to the relative size of expansion gaps, may require special section skirtings or cover-strip edge details.

Fig 10 a

Fig 10 a

2.  Radiator Pipes

Drill a hole in the board to accommodate the radiator pipe. The space around the pipe must be the same as the expansion gap at
the wall (Fig. 10 (a) and (b)). A tapered wedge is then cut from the board as shown and this is glued back into place after the board is laid. The gap around the pipe is then covered with a Junckers radiator pipe cover, available in hardwood or plastic.

Fig 10 b

Fig 10 b

3.  Door Frames and Architraves

The boards must be fitted under door frames and architraves, allowing the appropriate expansion gaps. Use an off-cut of flooring plus underlay to make the cut at the correct level (Fig. 11).

Fig 11

Fig 11

4. Door Thresholds

An expansion allowance will usually be necessary. Where levels do not change, the gap can be covered with a Junckers Threshold Strip in hardwood or polished brass. Where levels reduce, a Junckers Ramp section may be suitable. To ensure the expansion of the floor is not restricted, ramps are best fitted to the edge of the Junckers boards and not the sub-floor. The ramp can be supported by hardboard or ply instead of underlay if the underlay is 2mm or thicker. This would also apply to junctions with mat wells. Floors over 12m wide, or those in irregularly shaped rooms should be laid starting from the centre. A special Double Clip is available and is used with a loose tongue which is glued to one side (Fig. 12).

Fig 6

Fig 12

These methods are also useful for floors which are laid diagonally or where changing the laying direction.

Material Selection

Junckers Floors are graded in accordance with established criteria. However, it must be expected that for certain grades of flooring, the laying process will include some on site filling, selection and making good. Factory filling may not always provide a perfect result as it may become dislodged during the handling and laying process. Junckers are able to provide tubes of filler for this purpose. As a general rule, most floors will require a 3% allowance for cutting and selection.

Technical Assistance

Junckers can provide a full range of technical assistance for anyone who is specifying or laying Junckers floors. Contact our Witham Office.

Cleaning and maintenance

Use only recommended Junckers cleaning and maintenance products upon the floor. Maintenance instructions are available from your supplier or direct from Junckers. Do not leave puddles of water to dry upon the surface, as moisture damage may occur. Junckers cannot be held responsible for problems associated with lacquers, oils and cleaning products from other manufacturers. NB Every Junckers product is manufactured from selected material and is subject to the Company’s stringent quality control procedures. The Company cannot take  responsibility for the installation of their systems which is dependent upon the condition of the sub-floor and the standard of work of individual contractors.

Additional Points To Remember

  1. Wood will expand and contract with changes in the environment. Therefore, expect to see wooden floorboards close together in the summer months and slightly apart in the  winter.
  2. In kitchens, Agas or similar heat sources will dry the environment which may result in small gaps appearing between boards.
  3. Use 22mm or 20.5mm boards in conservatories.
  4. Junckers lacquered boards laid in kitchens can have an additional coat of Junckers Isolacquer, Junckers STRONG or Junckers Sport High Performance lacquer applied immediately after installation. This helps to reduce the effects of spillages and splashes upon the floor. Spillages must be wiped up immediately.
  5. Junckers floors are not suitable for use in bathrooms or other wet areas. Water left upon the surface can cause damage.
  6. Junckers 14mm, 20.5mm and 22mm Clip System Floors can be laid over most types of underfloor heating. Contact Junckers for specific recommendations and refer to information sheets ref: E 4.0 and E 4.1.
  7. The Clip System must NOT be used directly over joists or battens. Boards must be laid onto an existing subfloor. 22mm and 20.5mm boards can, however, be secret nailed to joists or battens, see separate instructions.
  8. The polythene backing on the underside of the boards is a balancing membrane and must not be removed.
  9. Clip System floors are floating floors and must never be directly fixed down to the sub-floor.
  10. Due to the staining process, SylvaRed colour may vary from batch to batch.
Source : Junckers

Popularity: 9% [?]

Junckers Solid Flooring

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood Flooring

Junckers solid hardwood flooring systems offer a fantastic range of pre-finished hardwood flooring which provide a large palette of colours and grains that allow great scope for creativity making individual solutions, unconventional combinations and innovative details possible. Junckers new Ultra Matt boards offer the natural matt look of an oiled finish with the strength of a polyurethane lacquer and with simple, quick and accurate floor installation, Junckers has many advantages.

Junckers flooring

Junckers flooring

Founded in Denmark in 1930 Junckers is now one of Europe’s leading producers of solid hardwood flooring. All timber is sourced from managed forests which reflects Junckers attitude towards forest management and its felling policy.

With the company’s unique press-drying process – which was developed almost 40 years ago – timber is strengthened and has increased stability. Recently the company has developed new staining techniques to create a wider choice of natural effects, marketed as the SylvaKet, SylvaRed and SylvaColor ranges.

With the accurate factory-machining of Junckers flooring, the need for site sanding after laying is eliminated therefore saving time on what would be a time consuming part of laying your floor.

Wood waste from the company’s plants is used as a fuel for the factory thus economising on energy.

Sylvared

Sylvared

Description

Junckers have 11 hardwoods available, these are;

  • Beech
  • Oak
  • Jarrah
  • Black Oak
  • Ash
  • Sylvaket
  • Sylvared
  • Sylvacolor
  • Jatoba
  • Merbau
  • Maple

Each of these are offered in various thicknesses, styles, grades and finishes, giving you a wide choice. Junckers hardwood flooring is supplied as 2 rows of staves assembled by means of a double dovetail joint into one board. The Junckers exclusive Quick Clip system has been developed for use over an existing level sub-floor, without the need for battens. There is also a wide board range which has been developed for a traditional look which is available in;

  • Oak
  • Merbau
  • Maple
  • Jatoba
  • Ash
  • Dark Ash
  • Nordic Ash
Oak Boulevard Wide Board

Oak Boulevard Wide Board

Sports Floors

Junckers have 7 floor installation systems which are available as well as a portable sports floor. Each of the systems offer different characteristics making them particularly suitable for the requirements of a specific application. The SylvaSport board is specially produced for these sports systems.

New Era levelling system

Junckers New Era system is for use where it is necessary to overcome the uneveness of existing timber or cocrete floors.

Acoustic Systems

Junckers offer 2 acoustic systems, The New Era Acoustic cradle system and the Clip system. Both of which meet the requirements of Document E of the Building Regulations.

Accessories

Junckers offer a full range of accessories including floor teatments and cleaning materials

Junckers Basefill

Junckers Basefill

Dimensions

Flooring is available either 14 or 22mm thick. Individual boards are 129mm wide and 1830/3700mm long

Appearance

Flooring is available either unfinished for site finishing or factory-finished with either several coats of hard-wearing polyurethane lacquer or with controlled saturation by rich penetrating oils.

Junckers and Real Oak Floors

Real Oak Floors is proud to be an authorised retailer for Junckers Ltd. We stock all of Junckers products and have regular special offers on Junckers flooring saving you money. If you have any enquiries about Junckers floors please dont hesitate to call one of our helpful sales team on 0844 848 6840

Junckers Catalogues & PDFs

Popularity: 9% [?]

‘Exclusive Collection’ Range Announced

The new Exclusive collection has now been announced by Real Oak Floors. These will be available in widths up to 450mm and lengths up to 7.5m. The full range along with pricing information will follow shortly.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Creative Collection Now Available in 240mm width!

The creative collection at Real Oak Floors has now been released in a 240mm width. It is available over the phone and will be available on the website soon.

Popularity: 2% [?]

New Woca products now available

Wood flooring company Real Oak Floors have just added more products to their Woca range. These include:

  • Woca Outdoor Wood Oil an ideal product for protecting all outdoor wooden furniture and fences with a protective, water resistant surface.
  • The ever popular Woca Colour Oils have four new colours available! These are named Antik, Bordeaux, Brandy and Cream. Woca Colour Oils still remain a very popular product for finishing wood flooring due to their high quality, long lasting finish.
  • A new water based decking oil is available, it comes in seven different colours, natural, teak, black, grey, walnut, bangkirai and larch.
  • Woca Oil Refresher is a great product for cleaning your oiled wood flooring. It removes dirt and grime while adding a protective layer to the surface. It is available in 0.25L, 1L and 2.5L quantities. Woca Soap is now available in a handy spray in either white or natural and is suitable for cleaning lacquered or oiled floors!
  • Wood lye is available in grey or white, it  primes softwood or light hard wood floors prior to oiling.
  • Woca lint free cotton cloths for removing excess oil when polishing, Swep Mops with replacement heads and patina discs have also just been added.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Laminate Flooring Information

Laminate flooring became very popular in the late eighties early nineties and swept the nation who went on a laminate floor frenzy. The first laminate floors did not have a click system but a standard tongue and groove which meant that all the boards needed to be glued together.

Laminate floors were available from most high street stores including Ikea, Allders, House of Fraser and others. Three strip laminate was the original flooring look and the floors were finished off with beading around the edges. Now there are numerous styles of laminate floors including planked effect, V-groove (bevelled) boards, tile styled laminate and even fully waterproof laminate called Aquastep.

The aqua step laminate is made completely from plastic meaning it is completely safe with water and will not swell or chip. It has click together fittings making installation simple. All laminates now come with the click fit system which means that DIY installation is simple.

Although many people tend to trade up to real wood flooring when renovating, laminate floors are still a reasonable choice for many.

Popularity: 3% [?]

200mm Solid Wood Flooring

New in at wood flooring company Real Oak Floors is a range of 20mm thickness 200mm wide solid oak flooring. This European oak can be sold with either a natural oil, matt lacquer or left unfinished to leave you the flexibility of adding the finish of your own choice. If you are interested in this product or any other product you can contact our sales team on 0844 848 6840 or fax us on 0844 848 6841.

200mm Solid Oak Flooring

200mm Solid Oak Flooring

Popularity: 1% [?]

Guide to wood flooring

Wood flooring is a beautiful thing to have in your home. Most wood floors will last a lifetime if laid properly and maintained regularly. To ensure you have all the information you require before choosing your wood floor and deciding on the laying methods we have prepared this simple guide from choosing the best floor for your home, installing with underfloor heating or moisture problems to fitting tips and maintaining your floor.

Download the complete flooring guide.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Preparing to lay your new wood flooring

Due to the nature of real wood such as oak it is a living and breathing product. It will expand and contract depending on its environment. A new wood floor looks fantastic but it is always best to ensure it stays looking pristine for years to come. The way to do this is to make sure the preparation for laying the flooring is done correctly, along with a common knowledge of the small issues that can happen with real wood floors.

Solid flooring has a tendency to expand and contract. In summer, when the air is more humid due to the house being aired more often – the boards soak up the extra moisture and tend to expand slightly. In winter, when central heating / underfloor heating are used regularly, the air in the house is very dry therefore resulting in the boards drying and contracting – this often creates gaps appearing between boards – often large enough to put a coin between. These are harmless and disappear in the warmer months when heating is not used in the house as often.

When hardwood flooring gets wet or damp it absorbs the moisture and expands to accommodate this extra moisture. This can often happen even if the room does not feel damp or wet – the humidity in the air can also affect the floor. Before laying a wooden floor in is essential to check that the room is dry and the sub floor contains no extra moisture. It is also best to check the moisture content of the flooring before installing. However the sub floor is the most important thing to check before installing as this will affect the floor if it is not the correct moisture levels.

Where an existing timber subfloor is present, this needs to be checked for wet rot, dry rot and for woodworm. Although these are not commonplace it is always best to check existing floors before laying down your new wood floors which can get ruined by rot or woodworm. It is always best to ensure that the existing boards are also securely fastened to the joists as they will cause creaking if not fitted well. Loose timber boards can be screwed down onto the joists – or additional noggins can be placed between the joists if an old board has been cut in the wrong place and is loose.

When nailing down onto the existing flooring, the boards should be laid at 90 degrees to the sub floor. This ensures maximum stability and strength in the floor. (As an example consider a jenga game where all the blocks are placed on top of each other in the same direction – it is extremely unstable). If you are wanting the boards to be laid in the same direction as the sub floor a layer of plywood can be placed and nailed or screwed down to ensure a stable fit of the new wood flooring.

There are additional precautions to take where a screed or concrete sub floor is present. New concrete dries at a rate of 1 inch per month or 1mm per day. Although the concrete can look and feel dry to the touch, it can often still contain more moisture than the recommended amounts for hardwood flooring. The best way to check is to use a moisture meter – this will give you an instant reading and tell you whether you need to
leave it to dry for longer.

If the new wood floor is engineered flooring that is being laid as a floating floor then it is possible to lay an extra layer of damp proof membrane (DPM) over the concrete / screed to ensure no moisture reaches the wood floor however if the floor is being glued down to the subfloor or battened out it would not be possible to lay the DPM, however a liquid DPM or epoxy resin can be used to create a liquid barrier instead. As solid wood floors are recommended to be stuck down to the sub floor it is best to glue solid wood floors down to the concrete directly therefore it is essential that the moisture is checked before laying.

With all wood flooring, an expansion gap must be left around the edge to ensure there is room for expansion in case of problems with moisture. This can be covered with skirting, beading or an edge profile. When preparation for the sub floor has been completed correctly, the laying of the wood floor is more likely to fit properly and without problems for the future.

Popularity: 10% [?]