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Floating Installations – For Multi-Layer Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Nov 16

Posted by admin in Engineered Wood Flooring, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | 2 Comments

This product is suitable for laying over underfloor heating systems.  Please contact us for technical information prior to laying.

PRE-INSTALLATION

To keep the wood in excellent condition it is imperative that the humidity level be controlled at all times, from delivery to laying the floor and during the years that follow installation.

The optimal humidity range for hardwood flooring is 45 – 60%; temperature should be maintained at about 18◦C.

Flooring should never be stored outdoors, on a cement floor, in a garage or in any damp conditions.  Care should be taken to store the wood flat; packs should never be lent against a wall.  Pre-finished boards should be left in the packaging in the room where it is to be laid until you are ready to lay the floor P(at least overnight).  Unfinished flooring packs should be open and the boards spread around the room in which they are to be laid for at least 5 days.

In a new construction all windows and doors etc should be installed and all wet trades should be completed.  Where a new concrete slab has been laid, the moisture content must not exceed 5 and the humidity level of the building must not exceed 60%.

Due to the variety of installations we can only generalise.  We would always recommend that the floor layer satisfy themselves of the suitability of the conditions before laying the floor.

Do not lay the flooring in areas that are wet or humid eg. Bathrooms, shower rooms etc

It should also be remembered that the floor layer is the last person to inspect the flooring.  Care should be taken to ensure that a balanced look is maintained when laying out the floor; any pieces that are suspect should not be laid. The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for defects due to incorrect installation or boards with defects that have been installed.  A waste factor of between 5 – 10% should be taken into account.

As a general rule we recommend at least 12 – 18mm expansion around the perimeter of the room and at doorways.  At least 12 – 18mm expansion must also be left where the floor comes into contact with any other vertical surfaces.  These expansion gaps can be covered by mouldings after installation.

In areas where the engineered flooring comes into contact with a fireplace, stove, heating system or un-insulated hot air vents a layer of asphalt or wax paper should be laid first.  This will prevent excess drying out of the wood flooring.

POST INSTALLATION

The appearance of spaces between boards indicates a drying out of the wood and an insufficient degree of humidity.

The appearance of waves or noticeable swelling in the finish of the wood flooring indicates the presence of excessive humidity.  Heating systems may have to be utilised throughout the year to maintain the correct humidity level.  The installation of a humidifier or an air exchange system can prove indispensable in controlling humidity.

Above all don’t forget that wood is a natural, living material and that we must look after it for life.  A proper maintenance program should always be carried out.

Barrier matting should be placed at all exterior doorways.

Remember that pets running around, stiletto heels and dirt and grit left on the floor can scratch wood; regular maintenance should be carried out to prevent this.

For full maintenance guidelines please refer to the individual maintenance guidelines that apply to the finish of your floor.

To help installation, the following tools are required:

Saw

PVA adhesive

Hammer

Tape measure

Pencil

Professional knocking block

Professional pull bar

Drill

Wedges

T square

1.       Ensure that the subfloor is sound, level and free of debris.  Cover the area with an appropriate underlay as recommended by Real Oak Floors.  If fitting over existing floorboards ensure that they are fixed solidly, this will avoid creaking.

2.       Lay out the first board ensuring the groove is towards the wall.  Place a wedge between the end of the boards and the wall, this will ensure that you have an expansion gap (minimum 12mm).  Complete the first line of boards, do not glue the boards at this stage.

3.       Turn over the last board of the first row, its tongue facing the tongue of the preceding board.   Mark the cutting line on the back of the board and cut to length.  Fit the board without glue.

4.       It is important that the boards follow the line of the wall.  If the wall is not square, make a line parallel to the wall and cut the board accordingly.

5.       Lay out the boards along the wall (groove facing the wall) and insert wedges between the boards and the walls.  PVA adhesive should be put into the groove on the header joints (end of the board).  The final board will need to be fitted using a pull bar; this should be fitted over the end of the board and then tapped into place.

6.       Providing the off cut from the first row is at least 300mm in length, this should now be used to start the second row.  Care should be taken that the header joints are staggered across the floor.

7.       A continuous bead of PVA adhesive should be placed on the upper edge of the groove on the board; the header joint should also be glued.  Join the boards by placing the tongue into the groove of the previous board; ensuring that the header joint is closed, they should now be knocked home with the use of a knocking block.  The knocking block should be used on the tongue in a flicking action.  Hold one end of the block against the board, the other should be at an angle of aprox 45 degrees away from the board.  Flick the block against the tongue with a sharp action, this will knock the board up; continue down the full length of the board, if necessary tap the board home using a hammer on the knocking block.  Continue across the floor making sure to clean any PVA adhesive off the face of the floor with a damp cloth.

8.       Wherever there is a central heating pipe or anything else that protrudes from the floor, place a board into the next row, take exact measurements and mark the sections to be cut on the back of the board.

9.       Drill or cut out the area needed, remembering to leave an expansion gap.

10.   Cut the board at an angle of 45◦.

11.   Apply PVA adhesive to the edges of the cut board and fit into place.  Care should be taken to leave an expansion gap between the board and the wall.

12.   Door frames and other wooden elements should be sawn off to allow the board to slide underneath.

13.   To calculate the exact width of the last board, lay the board over the last but one line of boards (tongue facing the wall).  Place another board face down over the board to be cut, remembering to leave the expansion gap, mark the board to be cut.

14.   Place the last line in place and knock up using a professional pull bar.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES

It is important to leave expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room, in doorways between rooms and at all vertical surfaces.

Perimeter of the Room

If the skirting board has not been removed, the expansion gap can be covered using a scotia or quadrant moulding.

Doorways

At doorways the floor should be broken with an expansion gap.  The expansion gap should be covered with a twin or ramp moulding.  This will allow individual rooms to expand and contract within their own Areas.  Which moulding to use is determined by the floor covering on the other side of the doorway,.  Floors equal in height should use a threshold T bar or flat Threshold, if floors have differing heights a ramp should be used.

Pipes, Vents and other fixed objects

Each can be unique, but the general rule is to measure very carefully before you cut and remember to leave a 12 – 18mm expansion gap between the object and the flooring.  Cover the expansion gap with mouldings, vent covers or pipe rings when the floor is complete.

Installations on stairs

Flooring on stairs must be fully nailed to the stairs.  Stair nosing mouldings should be installed suing either screw type fasteners or nails.

A guide to the installation of Junckers

Apr 21

Posted by admin in Brand Name Flooring, Floor Fitting, Flooring, Flooring Installation | 3 Comments

Suitable Products

20.5mm, 22mm and 14mm clip system floors

22mm and 20.5mm – sports, commercial and domestic

14mm – domestic, light-duty commercial


Please follow these simple instructions

We are concerned that your floor is a success and provides you with many years of trouble free service. Wood is a natural material and is, therefore, subject to infinite variations in colour, texture, knots and grain patterns. Natural timber also contains characteristics which are not found inman-made materials such as surface splits, shakes etc., and sometimes filling is necessary. These are accepted as being normal features of many of our products and are not detrimental to the performance of the floor.

Wood is a hygroscopic material. Changes in humidity will cause natural expansion and contraction of the floor. Small gaps may occur. Details given in this brochure are also shown in the Junckers T I system available in CD Rom version or on the Junckers internet site at www.junckers.com

Also see information sheets, Ref: C2.1.1, C5.1.1 and C3.1.1

Stage 1

Before, During and After installation – A dry environment

In the area where the floor is to be stored and laid, conditions must be the same as expected when the area will be in use. The room must be weathertight, heating system in operation and wet trades (eg. plaster and cement) must be fully dry. Any damp problems must be remedied first.
The relative humidity of the air should remain between 35% – 65% RH. Heating and/or ventilation may be necessary to maintain conditions. This is especially important in newly built or renovated properties, or those which may remain unoccupied for some time after the floor is laid.

The floor should be delivered as near as possible to the time when it is to be laid. The polythene wrapping is left intact during storage and the flooring must not be allowed to “acclimatise”. The polythene wrapping is not waterproof and must not be considered to be protection against damp. Packs can be opened for inspection upon delivery, but should be resealed until the time of fixing.

Fig 1

Stage 2

Sub-floors – General notes and preparation

Junckers Clip System Floors can be laid upon most types of dry, level sub-floor, including sand and cement screed, and timber such as floor boards, chipboard etc.
Sand and cement screeds

Screed

Fig 1

These must be flat and fully dry. This means the moisture content must be maximum 5% or 75% Relative Humidity. (Fig. 1). On ground and all cementitious floors, a surface moisture barrier of Junckers SylvaThene polythene, Sisalkraft Moistop 728 or PolyLay must be laid with the joints well lapped and taped, and turned up at the walls. The screed must be levelled to a tolerance of no more than a 3mm gap showing under a 3m straight edge. A self-levelling compound may help to achieve this tolerance if the base is found to be uneven. (Fig. 1).

Timber sub-floors

These may be floor boards, chipboard, ply or similar. Ensure the floor has adequate protection against damp from below. If the floor is on joists, ensure the void below is ventilated to building regulation standards. Air-bricks must not be blocked. The moisture content of the timber base must be 12%–14%. It must be soundly fixed and flat. The base must be levelled to no more than a 3mm gap showing beneath a 3m straight edge. If the base is unlevel, it is sometimes possible to achieve a flat surface by sanding or securely nailing down plywood of sufficient thickness.

Mixed sub-floors

Junckers Clip System floors can be laid onto a base made from more than one material eg. part screed, part timber. Clip System Floors may be laid onto polystyrene insulation, with a moisture membrane underneath. No additional underlay should be necessary. Polystyrene must be tongue and groove jointed and have a minimum density of 20kg/m3 for 22mm and 20.5mm floors, and 40kg/m3 for 14mm floors.

Stage 3

Choosing underlays

The range of underlays is as follows:

For 22mm, 20.5mm and 14mm floors PolyLay An underlay and moisture barrier. 1.5mm thick for use in domestic and commercial installations. Offers good step sound absorption and cushioning. 2mm For commercial or domestic floors SylvaFoam laid onto timber sub-floors and 2mm where a moderate amount of shock SylvaFelt absorption is required. Additional moisture barrier is necessary if laid onto cementitious floors.

For 22mm and 20.5mm floors 5mm Sports or multi-use applications MultiFoam where good shock absorption is needed. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. 10mm Sports floors where a floor fully ProFoam complying with standards BS7044 Part 4 and DIN 18032 Part 2 is required. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. Note: With underfloor heating systems, a second layer of Junckers Sylvathene is also required. See separate Guide E4.1.

Selecting the correct size of clip

Three Clip sizes are available, each to suit the humidity level expected when the building will be in use. Select the Clip size using the table below.

Site Conditions Relative Humidity Label Colour Clip Type Clip Size
Dry, well heated constant conditions 35-50% Green One Hole 129.1mm
Mostly well heated, some fluctuations 45-65% Yellow Two Holes 129.4mm
Intermittently / rarely heated 60-90% Mauve Three Holes 129.8mm

CLIP CONSUMPTION

Domestic installations: 13 clips per m2
Commercial and Sports installations: 17 clips per m2
Wide Board Range Floors (20.5mm): 17 clips per m2

Stage 4

Expansion allowances

Gaps will be necessary around the floor’s perimeter and ALL fixed points. (Fig. 2).

Gaps at “A” must be left empty. For 22mm and 20.5mm floors, these gaps must be 2mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm. For 14mm floors, 3mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm.
Gaps at board ends, B, are to be filled with Junckers Cork or Rubber Strip, ensure the strips are a close fit in the gaps. The size of these gaps to be 1mm for every metre of floor length, minimum 10mm at each end. The gaps and strips are usually covered with a skirting, quadrant or scotia moulding, available from Junckers.

See also “Edge Details and Other Tips”.

Fig 2

Fig 2

Stage 5

Installing the floor

When installing a surface moisture barrier, ensure the sub-floor is free from loose particles.

Fig 3

Fig 3

Unroll the moisture barrier and extend it up the walls just over the finished height of the skirting. (To be trimmed off after the skirtings are fixed). (Fig. 3). Ensure the moisture content of the cementitious base is less than 5%. It is not possible to cover up a damp problem with a moisture barrier. It will protect the Junckers floor from residual moisture only. For SylvaThene and Sisalkraft, edges must be lapped by 100mm and taped with Junckers Waterpoof Tape. Sisalkraft is placed black side downwards. The underlay is then placed over this. There is no need to fix the underlay or moisture barrier to the base. PolyLay is laid felt side downwards with the polythene edges lapped. No additional moisture barrier should be necessary.
Laying the first row of boards

See Figures 4 (Domestic) and 5 (Sports and Commercial Floors). Use temporary spacer blocks to form the correct size expansion gap between the wall and the first board. Note: these must be removed upon completion.

Fig 4

Fig 4

Note Clip spacings in Figs 4 and 5.

Fig 5

Fig 5

If the wall is not straight, it may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to suit. Check the expansion gap can easily be covered. With a hammer, tap the correct end of the Clip into the groove on the back of the board. This is the end with the holes. The plain end of the Clip must point towards the board’s tongue, as shown in Fig 6.

Fig 6

Fig 6

Note: take care to align the Clip correctly before hammering.

One firm tap with the hammer is usually necessary. Excessive or repeated hammer blows may cause the Clips to become loose. Note: The Clips and boards must NEVER be fixed directly to the sub-floor! Lay the board in place, tongue pointing away from the wall. Continue to the end of the row, cutting the last board to length. The offcut will be used later. All board header (end) joints must be glued with Junckers SylvaFix Adhesive. Excess adhesive must be wiped from the surface with a damp cloth (Fig. 7).

Never apply glue to the long joints (except last board – see below).

Fig 7

Fig 7

Second and subsequent rows

The off-cut from one row of boards is then used to begin the next row. Ensure the board and stave (strip) end joints are staggered to produce a random strip pattern. They must not fall into line on adjacent boards (Fig. 8). Ensure the stave ends on adjoining boards are no closer than 80mm and header (board end) joints are no closer than 250mm. When tapping Clips into the new board, take care to ensure they are no closer than 50mm to the Clips on the last row.

Fig 8

Fig 8

To lay subsequent rows of boards, fit the Clips as before and offer the tongue and groove together. Using a wooden block, (or installation kit for 14mm floors), gently tap the joint together, working evenly along the board, taking care not to put weight upon the new board until the joint is nearly closed. Moderate downward pressure will then push the Clips home. With some types of Clip it is normal for there to be small gaps between the boards. The last row of boards will probably require cutting to width to fit. This row is glued along the tongue and groove joint only if a Clip cannot be fixed and is the only board to be glued this way. Do not forget to leave the appropriate clear expansion gap. Use a joint puller to fully close the joint (Fig. 9).

Fig 9

Fig 9

Finishing the job

Remove all temporary wooden spacers at the perimeter.

Edge details and other tips

1. The Perimeter Gaps can usually be covered with Junckers skirting, scotia or quadrant. These are usually nailed, screwed or glued to the wall or existing skirting. Large installations such as sports halls, due to the relative size of expansion gaps, may require special section skirtings or cover-strip edge details.

Fig 10 a

Fig 10 a

2.  Radiator Pipes

Drill a hole in the board to accommodate the radiator pipe. The space around the pipe must be the same as the expansion gap at
the wall (Fig. 10 (a) and (b)). A tapered wedge is then cut from the board as shown and this is glued back into place after the board is laid. The gap around the pipe is then covered with a Junckers radiator pipe cover, available in hardwood or plastic.

Fig 10 b

Fig 10 b

3.  Door Frames and Architraves

The boards must be fitted under door frames and architraves, allowing the appropriate expansion gaps. Use an off-cut of flooring plus underlay to make the cut at the correct level (Fig. 11).

Fig 11

Fig 11

4. Door Thresholds

An expansion allowance will usually be necessary. Where levels do not change, the gap can be covered with a Junckers Threshold Strip in hardwood or polished brass. Where levels reduce, a Junckers Ramp section may be suitable. To ensure the expansion of the floor is not restricted, ramps are best fitted to the edge of the Junckers boards and not the sub-floor. The ramp can be supported by hardboard or ply instead of underlay if the underlay is 2mm or thicker. This would also apply to junctions with mat wells. Floors over 12m wide, or those in irregularly shaped rooms should be laid starting from the centre. A special Double Clip is available and is used with a loose tongue which is glued to one side (Fig. 12).

Fig 6

Fig 12

These methods are also useful for floors which are laid diagonally or where changing the laying direction.

Material Selection

Junckers Floors are graded in accordance with established criteria. However, it must be expected that for certain grades of flooring, the laying process will include some on site filling, selection and making good. Factory filling may not always provide a perfect result as it may become dislodged during the handling and laying process. Junckers are able to provide tubes of filler for this purpose. As a general rule, most floors will require a 3% allowance for cutting and selection.

Technical Assistance

Junckers can provide a full range of technical assistance for anyone who is specifying or laying Junckers floors. Contact our Witham Office.

Cleaning and maintenance

Use only recommended Junckers cleaning and maintenance products upon the floor. Maintenance instructions are available from your supplier or direct from Junckers. Do not leave puddles of water to dry upon the surface, as moisture damage may occur. Junckers cannot be held responsible for problems associated with lacquers, oils and cleaning products from other manufacturers. NB Every Junckers product is manufactured from selected material and is subject to the Company’s stringent quality control procedures. The Company cannot take  responsibility for the installation of their systems which is dependent upon the condition of the sub-floor and the standard of work of individual contractors.

Additional Points To Remember

  1. Wood will expand and contract with changes in the environment. Therefore, expect to see wooden floorboards close together in the summer months and slightly apart in the  winter.
  2. In kitchens, Agas or similar heat sources will dry the environment which may result in small gaps appearing between boards.
  3. Use 22mm or 20.5mm boards in conservatories.
  4. Junckers lacquered boards laid in kitchens can have an additional coat of Junckers Isolacquer, Junckers STRONG or Junckers Sport High Performance lacquer applied immediately after installation. This helps to reduce the effects of spillages and splashes upon the floor. Spillages must be wiped up immediately.
  5. Junckers floors are not suitable for use in bathrooms or other wet areas. Water left upon the surface can cause damage.
  6. Junckers 14mm, 20.5mm and 22mm Clip System Floors can be laid over most types of underfloor heating. Contact Junckers for specific recommendations and refer to information sheets ref: E 4.0 and E 4.1.
  7. The Clip System must NOT be used directly over joists or battens. Boards must be laid onto an existing subfloor. 22mm and 20.5mm boards can, however, be secret nailed to joists or battens, see separate instructions.
  8. The polythene backing on the underside of the boards is a balancing membrane and must not be removed.
  9. Clip System floors are floating floors and must never be directly fixed down to the sub-floor.
  10. Due to the staining process, SylvaRed colour may vary from batch to batch.
Source : Junckers

25% off Woca products for trade customers

Mar 19

Posted by admin in Floor Fitting, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | No Comments

Wood flooring company Real Oak Floors are now offering 25% discounts on all Woca products to trade customers and bulk orders. Our range of woca products covers both indoor wood floors and outdoor items such as benches, windows and fences.

Woca Outdoor Wood Oil

Woca Outdoor Wood Oil

New Woca products now available

Mar 18

Posted by admin in Floor Fitting, Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | 1 Comment

Wood flooring company Real Oak Floors have just added more products to their Woca range. These include:

  • Woca Outdoor Wood Oil an ideal product for protecting all outdoor wooden furniture and fences with a protective, water resistant surface.
  • The ever popular Woca Colour Oils have four new colours available! These are named Antik, Bordeaux, Brandy and Cream. Woca Colour Oils still remain a very popular product for finishing wood flooring due to their high quality, long lasting finish.
  • A new water based decking oil is available, it comes in seven different colours, natural, teak, black, grey, walnut, bangkirai and larch.
  • Woca Oil Refresher is a great product for cleaning your oiled wood flooring. It removes dirt and grime while adding a protective layer to the surface. It is available in 0.25L, 1L and 2.5L quantities. Woca Soap is now available in a handy spray in either white or natural and is suitable for cleaning lacquered or oiled floors!
  • Wood lye is available in grey or white, it  primes softwood or light hard wood floors prior to oiling.
  • Woca lint free cotton cloths for removing excess oil when polishing, Swep Mops with replacement heads and patina discs have also just been added.

Guide to wood flooring

Mar 9

Posted by admin in Engineered, Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | No Comments

Wood flooring is a beautiful thing to have in your home. Most wood floors will last a lifetime if laid properly and maintained regularly. To ensure you have all the information you require before choosing your wood floor and deciding on the laying methods we have prepared this simple guide from choosing the best floor for your home, installing with underfloor heating or moisture problems to fitting tips and maintaining your floor.

Download the complete flooring guide.

Bona Novia wood flooring finish now available

Feb 27

Posted by admin in Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation | 1 Comment

Real Oak Floors now have available the Bona Novia wood flooring finish which is the replacement product for the Bona Spectra. The Bona Novia can be applied with any Bona waterbourne primer or used directly onto the wood for a warm colouration. For full product information and prices have a look at the Bona Novia page on the Real Oak Floors website.

Bona Novia

Bona Novia

How to install a floor using adhesive

Oct 7

Posted by admin in Floor Fitting, Flooring, Flooring Installation | 16 Comments

Both solid and engineered floors can be installed using wood flooring adhesive, Real Oak Floors recommend the use of Everbuild 650 Wood Flooring Adhesive and Everbuild 750 Quick Drying Flooring Adhesive. There are two main techniques for installing using adhesive which will both be explained. Please remember that solid floors are always recommended to be glued down, not using the floating method.

Floating Floor Method

The floating floor method of fixing the wood flooring is done by gluing the tongues and grooves of the floor together. This creates a new floor which is “floating” over the original floor. Floors can be floated over any solid subfloor and it is the preferred method for laying engineered floors.

It is a good option when the subfloor moisture content is unknown as a damp proof membrane can be used between the floor and subfloor to prevent moisture rising into the new flooring. When floating a floor, an underlay must be used to dampen any echo and extra noise.

This echo is caused by two hard surfaces together which have a space between them. The noise echoes in this void. The underlay is used to prevent any echo as the two hard surfaces will not be touching.
There is a wide range of underlays for use when floating the floor – all of which are adequate however one of the best on the market is Silentfloor Gold manufactured by Timbermate. This is a very dense underlay which means there is less sound echo from foot traffic. Generally the more dense an underlay the less noise!

To float the floor:

Lay out the damp proof membrane (if required) ensuring that the edges of the membrane continue up the side of the skirting. Lay out the underlay ensuring all areas of the floor are covered. Any areas left uncovered with the underlay will cause a bounce in the new floor and will be noisier. A PVA adhesive is used to glue the boards together.

Fit the floor by placing two beads of adhesive along the upper and lower sides of the “groove” joint. (It is a common mistake to think that the boards need to be glued along the “tongue” – this will simply push the adhesive too far into the joint and not create a firm bond between the boards.) You must ensure that the beads of glue are constant and not intermittent as this can cause the boards to creak if the joint is not constant.

Leave the joints and glue to dry before walking on the floor. Any PVA glue which has spilled onto the boards can easily be wiped off a lacquered or oiled board, or sanded off an unfinished floor. It must be noted that thermo treated solid oak has less density therefore water based pva will not adhere to the timber as well as normal oak. When using solid thermo treated oak it is best to use another fitting option, however if the boards are engineered this is not a problem as the tongue and grooves are made from the softwood base.

Glue Down Method

The glue down method of fitting a floor consists of using a strong, thick floor specific adhesive applied directly to the subfloor enabling the new floor to stick directly to the original floor. This is a very sturdy method which is the recommended option for solid wood flooring and parquet floors.

To fit a floor using the glue down method you must ensure that the subfloor is dry, level and structurally sound. When fitting onto concrete it is best to prime the area first using a PVA based primer to ensure a good bond to the floor. Any old concrete is recommended to be checked for moisture before the boards are laid. Both engineered flooring and solid flooring can be laid using the glue down method.

To glue the floor down:

Firstly, ensure the subfloor is flat, free from dust and dirt and if necessary has been primed. Working at an area just large enough to complete within 20 minutes, apply the adhesive to the wood floors using a notched trowel ensuring the whole surface has an even amount of glue. Fit the new floor boards ensuring all boards have been pulled tight and have not been moved out of place as other boards have been fitted.

Leave the adhesive to dry for 12 hours and do not walk on the floor until it is fully dry. Unlike the PVA adhesive, the flooring adhesive is very difficult to remove from the surface of the boards so ensure that any spills on the boards are wiped off immediately before the boards have dried.

Other Adhesive based fitting methods:

The are other adhesive based fitting options used to fit flooring:

  1. Adhesive backed flooring underlay. A foam underlay backed with 1 side adhesive. The underlay has a sticky side covered in a plastic film which is peeled back as the floor is laid. Envoy multi, Elastilon and Acoustalay adhesive 300/1000 are all types of adhesive backed underlay.
  2. Slatted Underlay for use with adhesive. This underlay comes with narrow slats cut out – this enables the underlay to be used in conjunction with adhesive as the glue is applied in the cut-outs. The floor benefits from being glued down directly with the added advantage of having an underlay in between. This option is used when the floor is to be glued down directly but the sub floor is not completely flat.

Trip Trap changes to Woodcare Denmark (Woca)

Aug 20

Posted by admin in Colour Wood Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation | 2 Comments

The Danish wood flooring oil manufacturers Trip Trap have lost a court ruling on the name “Trip Trap”.  Due to this ruling they will now be changing their name to Woodcare Denmark – or Woca for short.

When the company Trip Trap split into separate divisional entities several years ago, the lawyers in Norway retained the ownership of the Trip Trap name outside of Denmark for thier “Traditional Trip Trap Furniture”.
As a consequence they are requesting full removal of the trip trap name for their own use, therefore changing the name of the “original” trip trap oils to Wooodcare – woca.

The new name will be taking immediate effect and Real Oak Floors will be shortly changing their website to reflect this (Woodcare oils).

The flooring oils are exactly the same and no changes to the trip trap product names or items will take place.  Woca danish oils have been one of the leading manufacturers for wood flooring oils for some time – their products are natural, effective and adaptable for all wood floor, furniture and wood products.

New range of Saicos wood flooring oils and maintenance products

Jul 28

Posted by admin in Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | No Comments

Real Oak Floors now have available another great range of wood flooring oils and maintenance products. The Saicos flooring oils range not only covers oils and maintenance products but also covers wood flooring cleaning products such as the Saicos Wash Care and Saicos Magic Cleanser.

The Saicos range covers oils specifically designed for wooden floors such as the Saicos Colour Wax Classic,  which is available in 18 different colour shades. Externaly used oils are also available which can be used on all outdoor wood such as fencing and decking (Saicos House and Garden Colour).

Saicos flooring oils are made from naturally found vegetable oils and waxes making them environmentally friendly. Also they contain no biocides or preservatives and are safe to be used around children!

Oiling Hardwood floors by using Wood Lye and oil

Jul 15

Posted by admin in Floor Fitting, Flooring, Flooring Accessories, Flooring Installation, Wood flooring | 2 Comments

Oiling Hardwood floors by using Wood Lye and oil

For oiling hardwood floors you will need the items listed below. Our quantity recommendations are based on experience of the average floor – if your wooden flooring is very old and porous then increase the quantities and vice versa for dense wood types.

Product Name <10m2 <25m2 <50m2 >50m2
Stage 1 – Preparation with wood lye
Flat mop 1 1 1 1
Woca Wood Lye 2 ltr 4 ltr 7.5 ltr 1 ltr per 7sqm
Blue Nylon Pad 1 1 1 1
Stage 2 – Main Oiling
Flat Mop from stage 1
Your Choice of Oil 1 ltr 2.5 ltr 5 ltr 1 ltr per 10m2
Your choice of oil will usually be the White master oil which will keep the floor looking light and slightly whitened.
If you require a very light finish the Extra white oil should be used.
Coarse, green Patina Disks 1 2 3 1 per 15m2
Absorbent Cloths 2 5 10 5 per 25m2
Stage 3: maintenance oiling
Blue Nylon pad 2 2 2 2
Intensive Wood Cleaner 1 ltr 1 ltr 1 ltr 1 ltr up to 400m2
Flat mop from stage 1
Maintenance Oil Natural 1 ltr 1 ltr 2 ltr 1 ltr per 40m2
Medium, green patina disks 1 2 3 1 per 15m2
Absorbent Cloths 2 5 10 5 per 25m2
Stage 4: subsequent cleaning
Natural Soap White 2.5 ltr 2.5 ltr 2.5 ltr 2.5 ltr
Flat mop from stage 1 & 2
Additional Mop Head 0 0 1 1 extra per 25m2

Stage 1 – Treat the floor with the wood lye. This will soak into the wood and is left to dry overnight.

Stage 2 – Buff the woca wood floor oil (master oil, colour oil) into the floor. The floor surface should then be rubbed down with coarse patina disks to smooth the wood grain. Any excess oil needs to be removed with a cloth so that the surface is damp rather than wet with the oil. If using the white master oil you will notice that some of the white residue is removed when wiping off the excess.

Stage 3 – Wash the floor using the wood cleaner. Re-oil with maintenance oil and rub down with the medium patina disk

Stage 4 – General maintenance of your floor. The white pigments in the soap will keep the floor light. The white soap should be used regardless of which oil was originally applied.

Preparation with Wood Lye: Stage 1

Ensure your wood floor has been correctly sanded ready for the oiling process.

The Wood Lye is a solution which contains a white pigment that ensures the floor will remain light after it is finished and continues to lighten when exposed to sunlight. You can use Wood Lye on any wood type, both softwood and hardwood. There are 2 types of wood lye which will complement your floor – for softwoods such as Pine and Larch, you need to use the softwood lye. For hardwoods such as oak and exotic species the Wood lye should be used.

Empty the Lye into a bucket or container and stir thoroughly to ensure all the pigments have been fully mixed together (these often settle at the bottom of the bottle).
When applying the wood lye use a blue nylon pad with the flat mop to get into tight corners. The instructions on the Woca Wood Lye state that the floor needs to be washed with Intensive Wood Cleaner before applying the Wood Lye, however this is not always required and the floor can be prepared by removing any dust with a vacuum.

  1. Spread the wood lye in to the floor using blue flat mop. Apply a generous coat of aprox 7sqm per litre to the floor. Ensure the wood is evenly saturated by brushing along the grain of the wood. Leave to dry for 8 hours.
  2. A further wash with intensive wood cleaner is recommended by Woca to remove any excess lye but this step is not always required as this process is also done when the floor is treated with the master oil.

The oiling process: Stage 2

Ensure all the Wood Lye has completely dried out before applying the oil.

It is advisable to wear old clothes during oiling as this process involves using plenty of oil cloths and the oil can damage your clothing. The process takes aprox 1 hour per 20sqm. Take care when using the oil as it can cause skin irritation – the use of oil resistant rubber gloves is recommended. When the cloths have been used they need to be placed in a bucket of water as the fumes can cause self-combustion. Empty the contents of the oil into a container and stir well to ensure the white pigments are not settled at the bottom of the container.

Apply the oil using the flat mop, brush, roller or cloth. Take care around the edges of the room and apply with a small brush and cloth to ensure no oil is splashed onto skirting or adjoining floors.

Leave the oil for 20 minutes to soak into the wood. If the oil absorbs through before this time apply more oil. Buff the floor using a flat mop to ensure the oil is fully absorbed. Working along the grain of the wood, buff the surface using the green patina disk to smooth the surface. Working from the edge of the room furthest from the exit, wipe off all excess oil using clean cloths and ensure there are no patches of oil left on the floor as this will start to shine when dry. A polishing machine can be used during this process for larger areas. These can be hired from most hire shops. Leave to dry for at least 12 hours and do not walk on the floor in this time. Dispose of all the cloths by placing in a container filled with water as they can self combust / ignite.

Maintenance process: Stage 3

A final maintenance coat should be applied to ensure that the floor is completely protected – if building work is being done protect the floor with Everbuild Roll and Stroll until all work is complete – then apply the maintenance coat.

1st Maintenance Coat

The 1st maintenance coat is applied to ensure that the floor stays durable and wear resisistant. This maintenance coat should be done after all building / decorating work has been completed as it can remove any dirt / wear from work done.

Step 1 – Wet Clean and scrub

This step involves cleaning the floor with Intensive Wood Cleaner. This should be made up of 1 part cleaner and 40 parts water. Scrub the floor using the flat mop to get any dirt off the floor.

Using a dry mop head or dry cloth, wipe off all the excess water from the floor. When the cloth / mop head get saturated rinse and wring out before continuing. Check the floor for marks whilst it is still wet – any marks on the floor can be removed with the edge of a knife.

Leave the floor to dry for 1-2 hours. Some wood floors including oak floors may look dull now – however the sheen and colour will return when re-oiled.

Step 2 – Oil

Apply a thin coat of maintenance oil to the wooden floor using a cloth and rub in well. The maintenance oil should be used sparingly. Whilst the floor is still damp, the floor should be buffed by using 2 green patina disks with the flat mop. This will smooth the surface of the wood to give a beautiful protected finish.

Wipe any excess oil from the floor after buffing. Leave the floor to dry for at least 4 hours before walking on it. If you are using a buffing machine and you want a higher sheen on the floor you can apply a second coat of maintenance oil and leave to dry for 1 – 2 hours. When the floor is tacky the excess can be buffed off.

Periodical cleaning: Stage 4

The White soap needs to be used when cleaning and maintaining your wood flooring to keep the floor light. When the floor requires a maintenance clean complete step 3 to bring the floor back to its fully protected condition.