Wood flooring company Real Oak Floors are now offering 25% discounts on all Woca products to trade customers and bulk orders. Our range of woca products covers both indoor wood floors and outdoor items such as benches, windows and fences.
Woca Outdoor Wood Oil
Popularity: 15% [?]
Wood flooring company Real Oak Floors have just added more products to their Woca range. These include:
Popularity: 16% [?]
Both solid and engineered floors can be installed using wood flooring adhesive, Real Oak Floors recommend the use of Everbuild 650 Wood Flooring Adhesive and Everbuild 750 Quick Drying Flooring Adhesive. There are two main techniques for installing using adhesive which will both be explained. Please remember that solid floors are always recommended to be glued down, not using the floating method.
Floating Floor Method
The floating floor method of fixing the wood flooring is done by gluing the tongues and grooves of the floor together. This creates a new floor which is “floating” over the original floor. Floors can be floated over any solid subfloor and it is the preferred method for laying engineered floors.
It is a good option when the subfloor moisture content is unknown as a damp proof membrane can be used between the floor and subfloor to prevent moisture rising into the new flooring. When floating a floor, an underlay must be used to dampen any echo and extra noise.
This echo is caused by two hard surfaces together which have a space between them. The noise echoes in this void. The underlay is used to prevent any echo as the two hard surfaces will not be touching.
There is a wide range of underlays for use when floating the floor – all of which are adequate however one of the best on the market is Silentfloor Gold manufactured by Timbermate. This is a very dense underlay which means there is less sound echo from foot traffic. Generally the more dense an underlay the less noise!
To float the floor:
Lay out the damp proof membrane (if required) ensuring that the edges of the membrane continue up the side of the skirting. Lay out the underlay ensuring all areas of the floor are covered. Any areas left uncovered with the underlay will cause a bounce in the new floor and will be noisier. A PVA adhesive is used to glue the boards together.
Fit the floor by placing two beads of adhesive along the upper and lower sides of the “groove” joint. (It is a common mistake to think that the boards need to be glued along the “tongue” – this will simply push the adhesive too far into the joint and not create a firm bond between the boards.) You must ensure that the beads of glue are constant and not intermittent as this can cause the boards to creak if the joint is not constant.
Leave the joints and glue to dry before walking on the floor. Any PVA glue which has spilled onto the boards can easily be wiped off a lacquered or oiled board, or sanded off an unfinished floor. It must be noted that thermo treated solid oak has less density therefore water based pva will not adhere to the timber as well as normal oak. When using solid thermo treated oak it is best to use another fitting option, however if the boards are engineered this is not a problem as the tongue and grooves are made from the softwood base.
Glue Down Method
The glue down method of fitting a floor consists of using a strong, thick floor specific adhesive applied directly to the subfloor enabling the new floor to stick directly to the original floor. This is a very sturdy method which is the recommended option for solid wood flooring and parquet floors.
To fit a floor using the glue down method you must ensure that the subfloor is dry, level and structurally sound. When fitting onto concrete it is best to prime the area first using a PVA based primer to ensure a good bond to the floor. Any old concrete is recommended to be checked for moisture before the boards are laid. Both engineered flooring and solid flooring can be laid using the glue down method.
To glue the floor down:
Firstly, ensure the subfloor is flat, free from dust and dirt and if necessary has been primed. Working at an area just large enough to complete within 20 minutes, apply the adhesive to the wood floors using a notched trowel ensuring the whole surface has an even amount of glue. Fit the new floor boards ensuring all boards have been pulled tight and have not been moved out of place as other boards have been fitted.
Leave the adhesive to dry for 12 hours and do not walk on the floor until it is fully dry. Unlike the PVA adhesive, the flooring adhesive is very difficult to remove from the surface of the boards so ensure that any spills on the boards are wiped off immediately before the boards have dried.
Other Adhesive based fitting methods:
The are other adhesive based fitting options used to fit flooring:
Popularity: 38% [?]
For oiling hardwood floors you will need the items listed below. Our quantity recommendations are based on experience of the average floor – if your wooden flooring is very old and porous then increase the quantities and vice versa for dense wood types.
| Product Name | <10m2 | <25m2 | <50m2 | >50m2 |
| Stage 1 – Preparation with wood lye | ||||
| Flat mop | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Woca Wood Lye | 2 ltr | 4 ltr | 7.5 ltr | 1 ltr per 7sqm |
| Blue Nylon Pad | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Stage 2 – Main Oiling | ||||
| Flat Mop from stage 1 | ||||
| Your Choice of Oil | 1 ltr | 2.5 ltr | 5 ltr | 1 ltr per 10m2 |
| Your choice of oil will usually be the White master oil which will keep the floor looking light and slightly whitened. If you require a very light finish the Extra white oil should be used. |
||||
| Coarse, green Patina Disks | 1 | 2 | 3 | 1 per 15m2 |
| Absorbent Cloths | 2 | 5 | 10 | 5 per 25m2 |
| Stage 3: maintenance oiling | ||||
| Blue Nylon pad | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Intensive Wood Cleaner | 1 ltr | 1 ltr | 1 ltr | 1 ltr up to 400m2 |
| Flat mop from stage 1 | ||||
| Maintenance Oil Natural | 1 ltr | 1 ltr | 2 ltr | 1 ltr per 40m2 |
| Medium, green patina disks | 1 | 2 | 3 | 1 per 15m2 |
| Absorbent Cloths | 2 | 5 | 10 | 5 per 25m2 |
| Stage 4: subsequent cleaning | ||||
| Natural Soap White | 2.5 ltr | 2.5 ltr | 2.5 ltr | 2.5 ltr |
| Flat mop from stage 1 & 2 | ||||
| Additional Mop Head | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 extra per 25m2 |
Stage 1 – Treat the floor with the wood lye. This will soak into the wood and is left to dry overnight.
Stage 2 – Buff the woca wood floor oil (master oil, colour oil) into the floor. The floor surface should then be rubbed down with coarse patina disks to smooth the wood grain. Any excess oil needs to be removed with a cloth so that the surface is damp rather than wet with the oil. If using the white master oil you will notice that some of the white residue is removed when wiping off the excess.
Stage 3 – Wash the floor using the wood cleaner. Re-oil with maintenance oil and rub down with the medium patina disk
Stage 4 – General maintenance of your floor. The white pigments in the soap will keep the floor light. The white soap should be used regardless of which oil was originally applied.
Preparation with Wood Lye: Stage 1
Ensure your wood floor has been correctly sanded ready for the oiling process.
The Wood Lye is a solution which contains a white pigment that ensures the floor will remain light after it is finished and continues to lighten when exposed to sunlight. You can use Wood Lye on any wood type, both softwood and hardwood. There are 2 types of wood lye which will complement your floor – for softwoods such as Pine and Larch, you need to use the softwood lye. For hardwoods such as oak and exotic species the Wood lye should be used.
Empty the Lye into a bucket or container and stir thoroughly to ensure all the pigments have been fully mixed together (these often settle at the bottom of the bottle).
When applying the wood lye use a blue nylon pad with the flat mop to get into tight corners. The instructions on the Woca Wood Lye state that the floor needs to be washed with Intensive Wood Cleaner before applying the Wood Lye, however this is not always required and the floor can be prepared by removing any dust with a vacuum.
The oiling process: Stage 2
Ensure all the Wood Lye has completely dried out before applying the oil.
It is advisable to wear old clothes during oiling as this process involves using plenty of oil cloths and the oil can damage your clothing. The process takes aprox 1 hour per 20sqm. Take care when using the oil as it can cause skin irritation – the use of oil resistant rubber gloves is recommended. When the cloths have been used they need to be placed in a bucket of water as the fumes can cause self-combustion. Empty the contents of the oil into a container and stir well to ensure the white pigments are not settled at the bottom of the container.
Apply the oil using the flat mop, brush, roller or cloth. Take care around the edges of the room and apply with a small brush and cloth to ensure no oil is splashed onto skirting or adjoining floors.
Leave the oil for 20 minutes to soak into the wood. If the oil absorbs through before this time apply more oil. Buff the floor using a flat mop to ensure the oil is fully absorbed. Working along the grain of the wood, buff the surface using the green patina disk to smooth the surface. Working from the edge of the room furthest from the exit, wipe off all excess oil using clean cloths and ensure there are no patches of oil left on the floor as this will start to shine when dry. A polishing machine can be used during this process for larger areas. These can be hired from most hire shops. Leave to dry for at least 12 hours and do not walk on the floor in this time. Dispose of all the cloths by placing in a container filled with water as they can self combust / ignite.
Maintenance process: Stage 3
A final maintenance coat should be applied to ensure that the floor is completely protected – if building work is being done protect the floor with Everbuild Roll and Stroll until all work is complete – then apply the maintenance coat.
1st Maintenance Coat
The 1st maintenance coat is applied to ensure that the floor stays durable and wear resisistant. This maintenance coat should be done after all building / decorating work has been completed as it can remove any dirt / wear from work done.
Step 1 – Wet Clean and scrub
This step involves cleaning the floor with Intensive Wood Cleaner. This should be made up of 1 part cleaner and 40 parts water. Scrub the floor using the flat mop to get any dirt off the floor.
Using a dry mop head or dry cloth, wipe off all the excess water from the floor. When the cloth / mop head get saturated rinse and wring out before continuing. Check the floor for marks whilst it is still wet – any marks on the floor can be removed with the edge of a knife.
Leave the floor to dry for 1-2 hours. Some wood floors including oak floors may look dull now – however the sheen and colour will return when re-oiled.
Step 2 – Oil
Apply a thin coat of maintenance oil to the wooden floor using a cloth and rub in well. The maintenance oil should be used sparingly. Whilst the floor is still damp, the floor should be buffed by using 2 green patina disks with the flat mop. This will smooth the surface of the wood to give a beautiful protected finish.
Wipe any excess oil from the floor after buffing. Leave the floor to dry for at least 4 hours before walking on it. If you are using a buffing machine and you want a higher sheen on the floor you can apply a second coat of maintenance oil and leave to dry for 1 – 2 hours. When the floor is tacky the excess can be buffed off.
Periodical cleaning: Stage 4
The White soap needs to be used when cleaning and maintaining your wood flooring to keep the floor light. When the floor requires a maintenance clean complete step 3 to bring the floor back to its fully protected condition.
Popularity: 15% [?]
Not Checking Moisture
Moisture is the number one cause of problems when it comes to installing wooden flooring. With this in mind it need not be, take the proper procedure to handle it and it will not be a problem. The problem is that a lot of flooring installers do not take this into consideration.
What quite often happens is that wood flooring is delivered straight to the job site in the winter. The flooring came from a reputable supplier and the wood was stored in a climate-controlled warehouse. After arriving at the job site delays happen and the wood ends up sitting around for a while. Not knowing the affects on solid wood flooring the temperature is increased by the heating in the building. The flooring is fitted and everything is fine, the next winter the customer rings to say that the flooring has gaps between the boards.
The cause of the problem is that the flooring acclimated to the conditions of winter when it first arrived, when it then acclimated to the hot summer humidity it swelled up and the edges of the board was damaged, the next winter the swelling reduced and the gaps were much larger than they should be.
Prevention
The best way to avoid this happening is to install the flooring when the moisture content is at a good medium, between the two seasons. The other way to solve the problem would be to not nail the flooring as tight as you normally would and leave “washer rows” to allow some swelling in the winter months without damaging the flooring.
Unprepared Subfloor
Subfloors should be clean, flat and dry. Not doing so can lead to many problems with the flooring its self. These problems can be seen as loose flooring, squeaky joints, deflection and uneven surface.
The dry part of the Subfloor equations come from the moisture content in the air as discussed in the earlier point “check moisture”. The clean part means that all debris and general dirt from the work site must be clean and cleared away from the subfloor and also that anything that may interfere with the adhesive that is going to be used with the flooring is cleaned off. The floor must be flat to industry standards, subfloors that are not flat enough should be flattened before the flooring is installed. Many problems stem from
using an inappropriate sub floor for the flooring used, it is crucial to get this right the first time!
Rushing into it
The main aim of this point is to get across that you should not jump straight into the job and start laying the flooring straight away. Take the time to plan out the job exactly.
While it may work for some to just start laying the flooring straight away it can cause major cosmetic problems. As you move from room to room angles can change as rooms are never perfectly square this leads to crooked flooring spreading through the rooms, a slight change in angle from the required 90 can have major consequences leading trouble for the fitters having to trim down flooring and as mentioned earlier the cosmetics of the flooring will be harmed.
Bad Racking
There are many many mistakes that are commonly made when racking flooring here are some common mistakes that are commonly made.
A common mistake to make when racking is not to look at the bigger picture of how the floor is panning out and likely to look when it is finished in the current state. This does not just mean the problems described above but it also means observing the wood that is getting laid, for example light and dark planks, after all wood flooring is not going to be perfectly the same since its wood, but who would want it to be anyway.
Since variations can happen between packs it is often a good idea to open up a few packs before you rack and use them at the same time using planks from each box to get some variation.
Not nailing enough
Not nailing the floor is a common problem with some floor fitters, often they may only put a few nails in per board or even only nail every other board. Saving cost is most likely their reasoning as the customer can’t exactly see the difference straight away or even see the nails them selves a lot of the time.
The short fall of doing things this way is that the wood flooring
will be loose, which will allow them to move around and make a lot of noise when they are walked on.
There is a flip side of this which is of course adding too many nails which can cause cracked
tongues and also loose floors this is a problem in oak flooring or any flooring for that matter. The basic rules to nailing is that there should be a minimum of two fasteners per board and that each fastener should be 1 to three inches from the end of the board for. Standard strip flooring the fastening space should be around every 8 to 10 inches and every 4 inches for plank flooring.
Popularity: 100% [?]
Buy now pay nothing until 2008!
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Every product on our Real Oak Floors website is available on credit!
Real Oak Floors offer complete flooring solutions with our flooring supply and fit scheme, we cover wood suplies & materials, accessories skirtings and architraves, fitting and finishing on our credit options. Even floor polishers/buffers sanding machines, edge sanders and tools can be purchased on credit.
No deposits or admin fees!
Not only can you buy the products on our site on credit, we also provide many products such as carpets and other wood flooring not shown online (Contact us for full details).
We also accept payments of credit card, debit card and Google Checkout.
Popularity: 3% [?]
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