Archive for category Engineered Wood Flooring

Ever Changing Technology in Engineered Wood Flooring

Engineered wooden floors have evolved a lot in the recent decade, which has enabled them to be the preferred choice of most customers due to the ability to use wood in places where solid wood floors would have simply buckled and warped.

The first “manufactured” engineered floors were made of a basic blockboard backing or small staves of softwood glued together.  Although these were good floors, they did not always withstand the rigours of heavy duty homes.  The wear layer was often very thin (between 1 – 2mm) and the boards themselves were usually 10mm – 15mm thick so they could never be used as a structural floor (ie over joists).  The width of the first engineered floors was usually up to 90mm, or was made up of 3 strips on the width of the board and therefore a wide plank look could not be achieved.

In the last 5 years the wide plank engineered oak floors have become a massive hit.

Board widths have now grown from 90mm to a staggering 450mm as a plank board and the thickness of the boards can be up to 22mm thick, suitable for structural use.  As the thickness of the overall planks has increased so have the top layers – commonly available in a 4mm or 6mm top layer of real wood.

With the emergence of the variety of board size, the fitting methods have also improved.  Initially, the boards were all tongue and grooved on all 4 sides and had to be glued together as a floating floor (gluing the tongue and groove so the floor is floating over the original floor – an underlay is normally used to dampen down the echo), but as the boards have evolved new fitting methods can now be used.  The cross ply boards can be nailed in a similar way to nailing solid wood boards – even 15mm thick boards can be nailed when the backing is cross ply.  This has meant that boards can now be nailed directly to the sub floor, or to the joists, without the need for adhesive.

The latest new fixing method is a click style fitting.  This has been adapted from the laminate floor fittings and works well for contractors and DIYers who just want a quick installation.

The latest update of the click style is the emergence of the G5 locking system.  This click lock system ensures that the ends of the boards are locked tightly in place and give a snug fit which will not work loose.  This is achieved by a rubber insert attached to one end of each plank.  This rubber acts as a seal and presses against the groove of the next plank.  As the next board length is laid in, it presses the rubber insert into the groove so the board cannot come apart.  It can easily be unlocked again if the plank laid next to it is removed.

It is only a matter of time before new technologies will move the fitting methods on again, however there is an abundance of choice with engineered boards currently so there is something to suit all tastes.

Miss Ruth Shann-Watt

Real Oak Floors

Engineered Flooring In The Home

With great thanks to its rigidity and resistance to the atmosphere, engineered hardwood floors are ideal in places where solid wood is not be a viable option. This is due to the resilient middle and bottom layers that are made of poplar wood or birch. Environments ideal for engineered inlcude conservatories that absorb large amounts of heat need flooring that will not expand, or even cellars where wood is laid on top of concrete.

Engineered Flooring

For you lucky readers today we have some great example of engineered flooring in the home:

Engineered Flooring in the home

Engineered Flooring in the home

Engineered Walnut

Floating Installations – For Multi-Layer Engineered Hardwood Flooring

This product is suitable for laying over underfloor heating systems.  Please contact us for technical information prior to laying.

PRE-INSTALLATION

To keep the wood in excellent condition it is imperative that the humidity level be controlled at all times, from delivery to laying the floor and during the years that follow installation.

The optimal humidity range for hardwood flooring is 45 – 60%; temperature should be maintained at about 18◦C.

Flooring should never be stored outdoors, on a cement floor, in a garage or in any damp conditions.  Care should be taken to store the wood flat; packs should never be lent against a wall.  Pre-finished boards should be left in the packaging in the room where it is to be laid until you are ready to lay the floor P(at least overnight).  Unfinished flooring packs should be open and the boards spread around the room in which they are to be laid for at least 5 days.

In a new construction all windows and doors etc should be installed and all wet trades should be completed.  Where a new concrete slab has been laid, the moisture content must not exceed 5 and the humidity level of the building must not exceed 60%.

Due to the variety of installations we can only generalise.  We would always recommend that the floor layer satisfy themselves of the suitability of the conditions before laying the floor.

Do not lay the flooring in areas that are wet or humid eg. Bathrooms, shower rooms etc

It should also be remembered that the floor layer is the last person to inspect the flooring.  Care should be taken to ensure that a balanced look is maintained when laying out the floor; any pieces that are suspect should not be laid. The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for defects due to incorrect installation or boards with defects that have been installed.  A waste factor of between 5 – 10% should be taken into account.

As a general rule we recommend at least 12 – 18mm expansion around the perimeter of the room and at doorways.  At least 12 – 18mm expansion must also be left where the floor comes into contact with any other vertical surfaces.  These expansion gaps can be covered by mouldings after installation.

In areas where the engineered flooring comes into contact with a fireplace, stove, heating system or un-insulated hot air vents a layer of asphalt or wax paper should be laid first.  This will prevent excess drying out of the wood flooring.

POST INSTALLATION

The appearance of spaces between boards indicates a drying out of the wood and an insufficient degree of humidity.

The appearance of waves or noticeable swelling in the finish of the wood flooring indicates the presence of excessive humidity.  Heating systems may have to be utilised throughout the year to maintain the correct humidity level.  The installation of a humidifier or an air exchange system can prove indispensable in controlling humidity.

Above all don’t forget that wood is a natural, living material and that we must look after it for life.  A proper maintenance program should always be carried out.

Barrier matting should be placed at all exterior doorways.

Remember that pets running around, stiletto heels and dirt and grit left on the floor can scratch wood; regular maintenance should be carried out to prevent this.

For full maintenance guidelines please refer to the individual maintenance guidelines that apply to the finish of your floor.

To help installation, the following tools are required:

Saw

PVA adhesive

Hammer

Tape measure

Pencil

Professional knocking block

Professional pull bar

Drill

Wedges

T square

1.       Ensure that the subfloor is sound, level and free of debris.  Cover the area with an appropriate underlay as recommended by Real Oak Floors.  If fitting over existing floorboards ensure that they are fixed solidly, this will avoid creaking.

2.       Lay out the first board ensuring the groove is towards the wall.  Place a wedge between the end of the boards and the wall, this will ensure that you have an expansion gap (minimum 12mm).  Complete the first line of boards, do not glue the boards at this stage.

3.       Turn over the last board of the first row, its tongue facing the tongue of the preceding board.   Mark the cutting line on the back of the board and cut to length.  Fit the board without glue.

4.       It is important that the boards follow the line of the wall.  If the wall is not square, make a line parallel to the wall and cut the board accordingly.

5.       Lay out the boards along the wall (groove facing the wall) and insert wedges between the boards and the walls.  PVA adhesive should be put into the groove on the header joints (end of the board).  The final board will need to be fitted using a pull bar; this should be fitted over the end of the board and then tapped into place.

6.       Providing the off cut from the first row is at least 300mm in length, this should now be used to start the second row.  Care should be taken that the header joints are staggered across the floor.

7.       A continuous bead of PVA adhesive should be placed on the upper edge of the groove on the board; the header joint should also be glued.  Join the boards by placing the tongue into the groove of the previous board; ensuring that the header joint is closed, they should now be knocked home with the use of a knocking block.  The knocking block should be used on the tongue in a flicking action.  Hold one end of the block against the board, the other should be at an angle of aprox 45 degrees away from the board.  Flick the block against the tongue with a sharp action, this will knock the board up; continue down the full length of the board, if necessary tap the board home using a hammer on the knocking block.  Continue across the floor making sure to clean any PVA adhesive off the face of the floor with a damp cloth.

8.       Wherever there is a central heating pipe or anything else that protrudes from the floor, place a board into the next row, take exact measurements and mark the sections to be cut on the back of the board.

9.       Drill or cut out the area needed, remembering to leave an expansion gap.

10.   Cut the board at an angle of 45◦.

11.   Apply PVA adhesive to the edges of the cut board and fit into place.  Care should be taken to leave an expansion gap between the board and the wall.

12.   Door frames and other wooden elements should be sawn off to allow the board to slide underneath.

13.   To calculate the exact width of the last board, lay the board over the last but one line of boards (tongue facing the wall).  Place another board face down over the board to be cut, remembering to leave the expansion gap, mark the board to be cut.

14.   Place the last line in place and knock up using a professional pull bar.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES

It is important to leave expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room, in doorways between rooms and at all vertical surfaces.

Perimeter of the Room

If the skirting board has not been removed, the expansion gap can be covered using a scotia or quadrant moulding.

Doorways

At doorways the floor should be broken with an expansion gap.  The expansion gap should be covered with a twin or ramp moulding.  This will allow individual rooms to expand and contract within their own Areas.  Which moulding to use is determined by the floor covering on the other side of the doorway,.  Floors equal in height should use a threshold T bar or flat Threshold, if floors have differing heights a ramp should be used.

Pipes, Vents and other fixed objects

Each can be unique, but the general rule is to measure very carefully before you cut and remember to leave a 12 – 18mm expansion gap between the object and the flooring.  Cover the expansion gap with mouldings, vent covers or pipe rings when the floor is complete.

Installations on stairs

Flooring on stairs must be fully nailed to the stairs.  Stair nosing mouldings should be installed suing either screw type fasteners or nails.

Maximising Space: Less is More with Home Designers

engineered hardwood flooring

engineered hardwood flooring

Decreased housing budgets reflects a general trend to increase a home’s efficiency, reduce excess waste and maximise space, Maryland’s Baltimore Sun reports.

According to a survey conducted by the NAHB:

average size of an American house shrank about 100 square feet last year to about 2,400 square feet…the percentage of homes with three or more bathrooms fell for the first time since 1992, while homes with four or more bedrooms declined for the third year in a row.

Ridding your home of needless extras such as game rooms, large en-suite bathrooms and outdoor swimming pools can not only help reduce initial outlay costs, but also cut utility bills and save energy. Concentrating on making better use of the essentials, such as better insulation in windows and doors, smart ways of heating and more modern and effecient appliances, can help save even more money. Also, choosing a good engineered wood floor can be a key factor in the overall appearance of your home. The colour, style and species all help to shape the look you are trying to create.

However, going ‘green’ isn’t always the cheapest option since innovative technology generally comes at a premium and can scare some consumers away, even if they will save money in the long run.

Making smart choices about the essential aspects of your home will always reap the benefits and there hasn’t been a better time to start than now, with Real Oak Floors offering engineered hardwood flooring at reduced prices yet sourcing woods only from sustainable forests.

Available in a range of styles, engineered hardwood flooring can be oiled, lacuqered or even unfinished. Its stability stems from the fact that a top layer of real wood compliments a strong ply-board backing. This helps when installing a wood floor in a difficult area such as over concrete and is also resillient against expansion, shrinking and warping.

Underfloor heating also helps to keep your home warm for less by spreading heating elements strategically across your home.

Creative Floor Collection – Updated and New Images

We’ve been busy this Christmas updating our wood flooring ranges, and we can proudly present our updated Creative Engineered Flooring Collection.

Our Creative Floor Collection is a bespoke range of engineered wood flooring that aims to give customers a wide choice of extremely high quality engineered boards in finishes that will suit almost any taste. To give you a true picture of the creative flooring we offer we’ve gone to some lengths to make sure the images you see on our site are the closest in colour and texture you will get to the real thing.

Of course, it’s impossible to replicate the style of wood completely, but the following chart should give you a breathtaking overview of the diverse range of engineered wood flooring we offer.

Oiled Creative Floor Collection

Oiled Creative Floor Collection

The creative oak flooring distressed collection reveals the contrasts and vibrancy of the real wood layer and is available in a range of contrasting dark and light tones.

Discover the depth of a smoked wood floor with dark tones of Campana oak flooring or the contrasting grains of Maranello. If you’re looking to retain the natural tones of the wood then our unfinished floor collection is the right choice. Trevisio is more akin to natural oak while Soleto is richer, almost red in colour.

Distressed, Smoked and Unfinished Oak Flooring

Distressed, Smoked and Unfinished Oak Flooring

Comparing Exotic Flooring to Traditional Oak Flooring

Although an oak floor can really make a different to your home’s interior and really open up the room, have you ever thought about going a little further and opting for an exotic engineered wood floor? At first, you might think why bother with the extra expense,but the recent introduction of the Real Oak Floors exotic floor collection just shows that you can style your home with a whole new look for as much as any other type of wood species.

Engineered Iroko Flooring

If you want a wood that varies in its tone that delivers a unique yet subtle colour pattern across your floor then Iroko is a fantastic choice. The fact that it is very durable makes it very suitable for a wood floor where there is large amounts of floor traffic or in places where pets or children may traverse the floor regularly. In large expansive areas, the floor is simply breathtaking, hints of toffee-coloured tones will bring out white furniture with elegance.

Engineered Teak Flooring

More stable than Iroko, wooden Teak flooring is a consistently-toned wood that has slightly darker grains giving it a character all of its own. Where oak will deliver a smooth, even tone to your floor, woods such as teak will liven up any minmalistic setting or work very well in a kitchen where you may have a teak kitchen worktop to complement the wood floor.

Engineered Doussie Flooring

Engineered wood boards like Doussie and Sapele give off a distinctive red colour and rate as a fairly hard wood on the Janka Hardness Scale (Doussie: 1810; Sapele: 1510). These two wood are much harder than oak flooring which may make a difference where floor traffic (including high heels!) is concerned.

In fact, you may need to take the hardness of the wood into consideration more if you opt for engineered wood flooring. This type of flooring is generally much thinner than solid wood flooring, although the exotic engineered wood flooring range at Real Oak Floors is 21mm thick, an extremely high quality board that will withstand a lot of use.

Installing Engineered Wood Flooring in Winter

Even though installing a wood floor can be a relatively painless task if you have the right tools and expertise, for the discerning home owner it is essential you forsee any additional circumstances that prevent getting the most out of your hardwood floor. Winter is on its way and for wood flooring this causes a slight problem – a lack of warmth underneath your feet. However, with good planning and these great tips, you’ll be on your way to covering all the bases.

Electric underfloor heating has probably become the most effecient and cost-effective method of heating your floors and can even act as the primary source of heat in your home. Most people, however, may want to combine radiators and underfloor heating as their main sources of heat and doing so can have its benefits.

In this instance, it is much more cost effective to place an underfloor heating system in areas where someone is going to stand for some time. The most obvious place is in the bathroom near the basin, although you need make sure whatever type of wood flooring you use is waterproof.

Going one step further, laying larger areas of underfloor heating where you may reside more frequently, such as a living room will help to make efficient use of heat where it is most needed.

A large amount of good quality engineered flooring should always have the option of electric underfloor heating and should ideally be placed when the engineered hardwood planks are being laid themselves. At this stage it is imperative that you have drawn up a plan your room and where you want the heating system to be placed:

Downstairs flooring plan for underfloor heating. Original flooring plan by designbasics.com

Downstairs flooring plan for underfloor heating. Original flooring plan by designbasics.com

As you can see, all the main areas are covered, catering in places where people will be stationary for a period of time. If you have installed a floating engineered floor in areas such as the garage or porch, you will have a much easier job laying underfloor heating than if the floor was stuck down.

Ovverall, planning your underfloor heating installation is essential to ensure all the areas you need are covered and that you are making the most out of heat dissapation. Engineered wood flooring is a great type of flooring to install during the colder months and will make just as lasting an impression as a solid wood floor.

240mm Wide Creative Wood Flooring

Already available in a massive range of sizes, our Creative Wood Flooring collection has a new addition – 240mm widths! Our bespoke engineered creative flooring is unique in its selection of sizes and finishes. Prices start from £26.35.

How Does Foot Traffic Affect Engineered Wood Flooring?

When fitting hardwood floor it’s always a good idea to think about how much use (and abuse) it will get. Kitchens and other high volume areas of a house will need flooring designed to withstand sudden high pressure (e.g. drops, high heels, jumping) and water resistance (spilliages etc.).

Unless you are going to lay high quality  Krono laminate flooring, it’s probably a good idea to avoid laying laminates. This flooring type is made of synthetic materials that really won’t hold solid like a real wood floor.

So, in order to prepare yourself for high volumes and tough types of floor traffic, hardwood flooring is the way to go but the type of resistent flooring you go for really depends on your budget. All is not lost, however, thanks to engineered hardwood flooring, a superb choice for ease of laying and attaining a high quality finish.

For those of you who don’t know, engineered boards are made up of multiple layers of wood with the bottom layers usually consisting of poplar wood or birch and the upper layer made of hardwood. Exotic engineered wood flooring is probably one of the thickest engineered planks around with its 21mm hardwood layer. Unlike 6mm (or less) thick boards, you can easily sand and refinish these exotic woods when marked or dented without weaking its structure. In turn, the life servicve of the floor will prolong over many years.

Generally, the thicker the engineered hardwood layer the more resistant it will be to damage.