Real Oak Floors is proud to announce it is soon to provide full trade accounts for Trade customers. Credit will be subject to status – please fill out the application on our website to go ahead with your new trade account.
We will also shortly be updating our special offers – new products are due in the next 2 weeks so look out for our latest list or subscribe to our mailing list to ensure you know of our offers as soon as they are available.
Click here for more information
Popularity: 1% [?]
Over the past several years, underfloor heating has become rather popular throughout the UK. With underfloor heating, heat comes from the floor and rises up as opposed to traditional radiators in central heating where the room is heated from the ceiling down.
There are two types of underfloor heating – electric and heated water systems – available, these are very similar apart from the obvious fact that one uses an electric heating cable whereas the other circulates heated water through a pipe. At Real Oak Floors we believe that Electric underfloor heating is the better of the two types for a number of reasons.
Electric underfloor heating is a lot cheaper and easier to install than its water based counterpart as no specialist tools are required and due to this, it is also cheaper to install as unfortunately for Mr Joe Bloggs the plumber, he isn’t required to fit electric underfloor heating either, sorry Joe. On the topic of the unfortunate Mr Joe Bloggs, with water based heating systems there’s the chance of burst pipes, leaks and although fixing the problem is easy enough it will require Mr Bloggs to come out with his charge which can be quite expensive! However with electric underfloor heating there is no need for maintenance, hurrah!
Underfloor heating has some fantastic benefits, including the lack of “hot spots” due to the floor becoming like one large radiator, speaking of radiators – with the lack of radiators on the walls you have more freedom in decorating your room, fantastic! Did we mention the fact that it helps reduce the circulation of allergens and dust also?
In short we highly recommend you consider the advantages of an underfloor heating system instead of traditional radiator based central heating, you may be in for a pleasant suprise!
Popularity: 5% [?]
There are many types of wood flooring out there and regardless of how nice a solid oak floor looks, sometimes, you fancy something with a more unique look and feel to it. In this blog post we will be talking about several types of tropical wood flooring which look fantastic and may be the perfect floor you have been looking for.
Wenge is a rather unusual wood which, when worked with initially, is a yellow colour however this changes into a dark brown colour with close black veins which look beautiful. Wenge is a fantastic timber for flooring as it is highly durable and has a high natural resistance to abrasion.
An example of some Wenge flooring
With a golden brown colour and inexpensive price tag, it’s no wonder that Iroko is becoming a popular tropical hardwood. This wood has a medium density with medium bending and crushing strength, it‘s great for flooring as well as being a suitable structural timber.
Golden brown in colour, Iroko really does look fantastic
Purpleheart is a wood which when worked with is a yellow colour but overnight changes into a unique attractive purple colour which darkens with age. Purpleheart is very durable making it excellent for not only flooring but also for gymnasium flooring.
For a truly unique look, consider the tones of Purpleheart
Danto has similar working properties to Iroko making it a viable alternative wooden floor. The wood has an orange-brown colour to it with the grain being straight to very interlocked which produces an attractive figure.
Danto flooring has a beautiful warm look to it
Teak is a very durable hardwood which has a medium density and a medium bending strength. The colour of the hardwood lies between a golden brown and a rich brown with dark chocolate coloured markings.
A beautiful example of Teak flooring
Zebrano is a West African wood commonly known as Zingana or Zebrawood. The wood has a pale golden yellow look with dark brown lines running throughout making the wood resemble the striping of a Zebra.
The colouring on Zebrano resembles the stripes found on a Zebra
We hope this brief covering of these species has helped in your search for the perfect floor, for a wider look at flooring species please visit our site or contact us either through email at sales@realoakfloors.co.uk or by telephone on 0844 8486840
Popularity: 4% [?]
Some of the most common questions we get asked at the wood floor blog are asking how to maintain the look of a floor, so we decided to put together some tips on keeping your floor in prime condition for you to enjoy for years to come.
We hope that these tips help you and answer any questions you may have, if you still have any queries please contact us or leave a comment below and we’ll answer any queries to the best of our abilities.
Popularity: 9% [?]
20.5mm, 22mm and 14mm clip system floors
22mm and 20.5mm – sports, commercial and domestic
14mm – domestic, light-duty commercial
We are concerned that your floor is a success and provides you with many years of trouble free service. Wood is a natural material and is, therefore, subject to infinite variations in colour, texture, knots and grain patterns. Natural timber also contains characteristics which are not found inman-made materials such as surface splits, shakes etc., and sometimes filling is necessary. These are accepted as being normal features of many of our products and are not detrimental to the performance of the floor.
Wood is a hygroscopic material. Changes in humidity will cause natural expansion and contraction of the floor. Small gaps may occur. Details given in this brochure are also shown in the Junckers T I system available in CD Rom version or on the Junckers internet site at www.junckers.com
Also see information sheets, Ref: C2.1.1, C5.1.1 and C3.1.1
Before, During and After installation – A dry environment
In the area where the floor is to be stored and laid, conditions must be the same as expected when the area will be in use. The room must be weathertight, heating system in operation and wet trades (eg. plaster and cement) must be fully dry. Any damp problems must be remedied first.
The relative humidity of the air should remain between 35% – 65% RH. Heating and/or ventilation may be necessary to maintain conditions. This is especially important in newly built or renovated properties, or those which may remain unoccupied for some time after the floor is laid.
The floor should be delivered as near as possible to the time when it is to be laid. The polythene wrapping is left intact during storage and the flooring must not be allowed to “acclimatise”. The polythene wrapping is not waterproof and must not be considered to be protection against damp. Packs can be opened for inspection upon delivery, but should be resealed until the time of fixing.
Sub-floors – General notes and preparation
Junckers Clip System Floors can be laid upon most types of dry, level sub-floor, including sand and cement screed, and timber such as floor boards, chipboard etc.
Sand and cement screeds
Fig 1
These must be flat and fully dry. This means the moisture content must be maximum 5% or 75% Relative Humidity. (Fig. 1). On ground and all cementitious floors, a surface moisture barrier of Junckers SylvaThene polythene, Sisalkraft Moistop 728 or PolyLay must be laid with the joints well lapped and taped, and turned up at the walls. The screed must be levelled to a tolerance of no more than a 3mm gap showing under a 3m straight edge. A self-levelling compound may help to achieve this tolerance if the base is found to be uneven. (Fig. 1).
Timber sub-floors
These may be floor boards, chipboard, ply or similar. Ensure the floor has adequate protection against damp from below. If the floor is on joists, ensure the void below is ventilated to building regulation standards. Air-bricks must not be blocked. The moisture content of the timber base must be 12%–14%. It must be soundly fixed and flat. The base must be levelled to no more than a 3mm gap showing beneath a 3m straight edge. If the base is unlevel, it is sometimes possible to achieve a flat surface by sanding or securely nailing down plywood of sufficient thickness.
Mixed sub-floors
Junckers Clip System floors can be laid onto a base made from more than one material eg. part screed, part timber. Clip System Floors may be laid onto polystyrene insulation, with a moisture membrane underneath. No additional underlay should be necessary. Polystyrene must be tongue and groove jointed and have a minimum density of 20kg/m3 for 22mm and 20.5mm floors, and 40kg/m3 for 14mm floors.
Choosing underlays
The range of underlays is as follows:
For 22mm, 20.5mm and 14mm floors PolyLay An underlay and moisture barrier. 1.5mm thick for use in domestic and commercial installations. Offers good step sound absorption and cushioning. 2mm For commercial or domestic floors SylvaFoam laid onto timber sub-floors and 2mm where a moderate amount of shock SylvaFelt absorption is required. Additional moisture barrier is necessary if laid onto cementitious floors.
For 22mm and 20.5mm floors 5mm Sports or multi-use applications MultiFoam where good shock absorption is needed. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. 10mm Sports floors where a floor fully ProFoam complying with standards BS7044 Part 4 and DIN 18032 Part 2 is required. Moisture barrier is necessary when used over cementitious floors. Note: With underfloor heating systems, a second layer of Junckers Sylvathene is also required. See separate Guide E4.1.
Selecting the correct size of clip
Three Clip sizes are available, each to suit the humidity level expected when the building will be in use. Select the Clip size using the table below.
| Site Conditions | Relative Humidity | Label Colour | Clip Type | Clip Size |
| Dry, well heated constant conditions | 35-50% | Green | One Hole | 129.1mm |
| Mostly well heated, some fluctuations | 45-65% | Yellow | Two Holes | 129.4mm |
| Intermittently / rarely heated | 60-90% | Mauve | Three Holes | 129.8mm |
CLIP CONSUMPTION
Domestic installations: 13 clips per m2
Commercial and Sports installations: 17 clips per m2
Wide Board Range Floors (20.5mm): 17 clips per m2
Expansion allowances
Gaps will be necessary around the floor’s perimeter and ALL fixed points. (Fig. 2).
Gaps at “A” must be left empty. For 22mm and 20.5mm floors, these gaps must be 2mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm. For 14mm floors, 3mm for every metre of floor width at each side, minimum gap 15mm.
Gaps at board ends, B, are to be filled with Junckers Cork or Rubber Strip, ensure the strips are a close fit in the gaps. The size of these gaps to be 1mm for every metre of floor length, minimum 10mm at each end. The gaps and strips are usually covered with a skirting, quadrant or scotia moulding, available from Junckers.
See also “Edge Details and Other Tips”.
Fig 2
Installing the floor
When installing a surface moisture barrier, ensure the sub-floor is free from loose particles.
Fig 3
Unroll the moisture barrier and extend it up the walls just over the finished height of the skirting. (To be trimmed off after the skirtings are fixed). (Fig. 3). Ensure the moisture content of the cementitious base is less than 5%. It is not possible to cover up a damp problem with a moisture barrier. It will protect the Junckers floor from residual moisture only. For SylvaThene and Sisalkraft, edges must be lapped by 100mm and taped with Junckers Waterpoof Tape. Sisalkraft is placed black side downwards. The underlay is then placed over this. There is no need to fix the underlay or moisture barrier to the base. PolyLay is laid felt side downwards with the polythene edges lapped. No additional moisture barrier should be necessary.
Laying the first row of boards
See Figures 4 (Domestic) and 5 (Sports and Commercial Floors). Use temporary spacer blocks to form the correct size expansion gap between the wall and the first board. Note: these must be removed upon completion.
Fig 4
Note Clip spacings in Figs 4 and 5.
Fig 5
If the wall is not straight, it may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to suit. Check the expansion gap can easily be covered. With a hammer, tap the correct end of the Clip into the groove on the back of the board. This is the end with the holes. The plain end of the Clip must point towards the board’s tongue, as shown in Fig 6.
Fig 6
Note: take care to align the Clip correctly before hammering.
One firm tap with the hammer is usually necessary. Excessive or repeated hammer blows may cause the Clips to become loose. Note: The Clips and boards must NEVER be fixed directly to the sub-floor! Lay the board in place, tongue pointing away from the wall. Continue to the end of the row, cutting the last board to length. The offcut will be used later. All board header (end) joints must be glued with Junckers SylvaFix Adhesive. Excess adhesive must be wiped from the surface with a damp cloth (Fig. 7).
Never apply glue to the long joints (except last board – see below).
Fig 7
Second and subsequent rows
The off-cut from one row of boards is then used to begin the next row. Ensure the board and stave (strip) end joints are staggered to produce a random strip pattern. They must not fall into line on adjacent boards (Fig. 8). Ensure the stave ends on adjoining boards are no closer than 80mm and header (board end) joints are no closer than 250mm. When tapping Clips into the new board, take care to ensure they are no closer than 50mm to the Clips on the last row.
Fig 8
To lay subsequent rows of boards, fit the Clips as before and offer the tongue and groove together. Using a wooden block, (or installation kit for 14mm floors), gently tap the joint together, working evenly along the board, taking care not to put weight upon the new board until the joint is nearly closed. Moderate downward pressure will then push the Clips home. With some types of Clip it is normal for there to be small gaps between the boards. The last row of boards will probably require cutting to width to fit. This row is glued along the tongue and groove joint only if a Clip cannot be fixed and is the only board to be glued this way. Do not forget to leave the appropriate clear expansion gap. Use a joint puller to fully close the joint (Fig. 9).
Fig 9
Finishing the job
Remove all temporary wooden spacers at the perimeter.
Edge details and other tips
1. The Perimeter Gaps can usually be covered with Junckers skirting, scotia or quadrant. These are usually nailed, screwed or glued to the wall or existing skirting. Large installations such as sports halls, due to the relative size of expansion gaps, may require special section skirtings or cover-strip edge details.
Fig 10 a
2. Radiator Pipes
Drill a hole in the board to accommodate the radiator pipe. The space around the pipe must be the same as the expansion gap at
the wall (Fig. 10 (a) and (b)). A tapered wedge is then cut from the board as shown and this is glued back into place after the board is laid. The gap around the pipe is then covered with a Junckers radiator pipe cover, available in hardwood or plastic.
Fig 10 b
3. Door Frames and Architraves
The boards must be fitted under door frames and architraves, allowing the appropriate expansion gaps. Use an off-cut of flooring plus underlay to make the cut at the correct level (Fig. 11).
Fig 11
4. Door Thresholds
An expansion allowance will usually be necessary. Where levels do not change, the gap can be covered with a Junckers Threshold Strip in hardwood or polished brass. Where levels reduce, a Junckers Ramp section may be suitable. To ensure the expansion of the floor is not restricted, ramps are best fitted to the edge of the Junckers boards and not the sub-floor. The ramp can be supported by hardboard or ply instead of underlay if the underlay is 2mm or thicker. This would also apply to junctions with mat wells. Floors over 12m wide, or those in irregularly shaped rooms should be laid starting from the centre. A special Double Clip is available and is used with a loose tongue which is glued to one side (Fig. 12).
Fig 12
These methods are also useful for floors which are laid diagonally or where changing the laying direction.
Junckers Floors are graded in accordance with established criteria. However, it must be expected that for certain grades of flooring, the laying process will include some on site filling, selection and making good. Factory filling may not always provide a perfect result as it may become dislodged during the handling and laying process. Junckers are able to provide tubes of filler for this purpose. As a general rule, most floors will require a 3% allowance for cutting and selection.
Junckers can provide a full range of technical assistance for anyone who is specifying or laying Junckers floors. Contact our Witham Office.
Use only recommended Junckers cleaning and maintenance products upon the floor. Maintenance instructions are available from your supplier or direct from Junckers. Do not leave puddles of water to dry upon the surface, as moisture damage may occur. Junckers cannot be held responsible for problems associated with lacquers, oils and cleaning products from other manufacturers. NB Every Junckers product is manufactured from selected material and is subject to the Company’s stringent quality control procedures. The Company cannot take responsibility for the installation of their systems which is dependent upon the condition of the sub-floor and the standard of work of individual contractors.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Junckers not only produce high quality flooring for your home and office, they also have a large range of high performance sports and dance floors.
A sports floor consists of three interacting elements which determine the area elastic and lifespan characteristics of the floor, they are:
With more than 20 million square metres of sports floor installed worldwide and the ability to perform most sports and dance activities on their sports systems, Junckers have a fantastic reputation within this field of flooring.
Blubat system
Junckers Blubat system is the simplest and cheapest unckers undercarriage system offering medium shock absorption and resilience at a budget price. It is fast and economical to install over a flat, level sub-floor and fully conforms to the BSEN13904 A3 requirements.
The system consists of 22mm Beech board secret nailed to a kiln dried softwood batten with a continuous layer of 9mm thick special foam on the underside.
Clip system
Junckers clip system delivers a medium level of shock absorption and resilience and is perfect for renovation projects which need low construction height. It is fast to install on an even sub-floor as all you need to do is roll out a 10mm thick underlay over the sub-floor before simply joining the boards together using Junckers own clips.
New Era Unobat system
Junckers New Era UnoBat system is a packable fully sprung flooring system which can be installed over an uneven sub-floor. Over the past couple of years extensive testing and development work has taken place over the last couple of years to improve the well established standard New Era levelling system to meet the newest standards. This new system incorporates a black Evazote Polyethelene foam rubber base for higher A4 level of the standard.
The system is comprised of 22mm press dried Beech board, secret nailed to a kiln dried softwood batten, which is supported by foam backed strong polypropylene cradles. Fine levelling of the system takes place between the cradles and battens with a range of heights available from 74mm to 439mm.
Unobat 50 system
Junckers UnoBat 50 batten system is a low elevation high performance undercarriage system offering fully sprung flooring to the highest demands and criteria. It is fast and economical to install and fully confirms to the BSEN14904A4 requirements.
With a total construction height of only 50mm this system is designed for installation over flat, level sub-floors. The system is comprised of a 22mm Press dried Beech board secret nailed to a veneered softwood batten which has a unique arrangement of specially developed rubber strips on the underside. The outer and inner strips differ in density and performance, low density on the outside and high density on the inside, to produce a 2 step absorption effect with a braking system which delivers optimum shock absorption and consistent ball response.
Unobat 62 system
Junckers UnoBat 62+ single layer batten system is a high performance undercarriage system which can be packed offering a fully sprung floor to the highest criteria. It is economical to install and fully compliant with the BSEN14904A4 requirements.
With a minimum construction height of 62mm (plus levelling material) designed for installation over even or uneven sub-floors. The system comprises of a 22mm press dried Beech board secret nailed to a veneered softwood batten featuring unique shock absorption rubber pads, which in conjunction with the patented J-Lock connection system delivers high performance sports and dance characteristics and enhanced durability.
The Junckers UnoBat62+ offers the performance attributes necessary for fast moving ball games while keeping the risk of injury at the absolute minimum.
Duobat 110 system
Junckers DuoBat 110+ double layer batten system is one of Junckers high performance undercarriage systems which offer a fully sprung floor to the highest criteria, it is easy to install it conforms to all BSEN14904A4 requirements.
It has a total construction height of 110mm (plus levelling material) designed for installation over even or uneven sub-floors with fewer packing points than other double battened systems. The J-Lock system ensures fast and secure connection between the upper and lower battens. The system comprises of a 22mm press dried Beech board secret nailed to softwood veneered double battens featuring unique shock absorption rubber pads, which, in conjunction with the patented J-Lock connection system, delivers high performance sports and dance characteristics and enhanced durability. The rubber pads never lose their elasticity.
Junckers DuoBat110+ offers the performance attributes suitable for high level gymnastic, dance, fast moving ball games and aerobics while keeping the risk of injury at an absolute minimum.
Portable floor system
Junckers Portable floor system offers the ultimate in flexibility for arenas and halls that play host to a wide variety of sporting and non-sporting events. In situations where specific line markings and logos are required the system provides the perfect solution.
If installed over an even sub-floor, installation couldn’t be simpler. Once the underlay is in position (5 or 10 mm thick) the panels are held securely in place by simple metal fittings that are just as easy to release when the floor is taken up. A ramped metal trim forms a strong and attractive edge. It has a total construction height of either 27mm or 32mm
If you have any more enquiries about Junckers flooring please don’t hesitate to contact one of our friendly sales staff who will be happy to help on 0844 848 6840
Popularity: 7% [?]
Mar 24
Hardwood Flooring
Junckers solid hardwood flooring systems offer a fantastic range of pre-finished hardwood flooring which provide a large palette of colours and grains that allow great scope for creativity making individual solutions, unconventional combinations and innovative details possible. Junckers new Ultra Matt boards offer the natural matt look of an oiled finish with the strength of a polyurethane lacquer and with simple, quick and accurate floor installation, Junckers has many advantages.
Junckers flooring
Founded in Denmark in 1930 Junckers is now one of Europe’s leading producers of solid hardwood flooring. All timber is sourced from managed forests which reflects Junckers attitude towards forest management and its felling policy.
With the company’s unique press-drying process – which was developed almost 40 years ago – timber is strengthened and has increased stability. Recently the company has developed new staining techniques to create a wider choice of natural effects, marketed as the SylvaKet, SylvaRed and SylvaColor ranges.
With the accurate factory-machining of Junckers flooring, the need for site sanding after laying is eliminated therefore saving time on what would be a time consuming part of laying your floor.
Wood waste from the company’s plants is used as a fuel for the factory thus economising on energy.
Sylvared
Description
Junckers have 11 hardwoods available, these are;
Each of these are offered in various thicknesses, styles, grades and finishes, giving you a wide choice. Junckers hardwood flooring is supplied as 2 rows of staves assembled by means of a double dovetail joint into one board. The Junckers exclusive Quick Clip system has been developed for use over an existing level sub-floor, without the need for battens. There is also a wide board range which has been developed for a traditional look which is available in;
Oak Boulevard Wide Board
Sports Floors
Junckers have 7 floor installation systems which are available as well as a portable sports floor. Each of the systems offer different characteristics making them particularly suitable for the requirements of a specific application. The SylvaSport board is specially produced for these sports systems.
New Era levelling system
Junckers New Era system is for use where it is necessary to overcome the uneveness of existing timber or cocrete floors.
Acoustic Systems
Junckers offer 2 acoustic systems, The New Era Acoustic cradle system and the Clip system. Both of which meet the requirements of Document E of the Building Regulations.
Accessories
Junckers offer a full range of accessories including floor teatments and cleaning materials
Junckers Basefill
Dimensions
Flooring is available either 14 or 22mm thick. Individual boards are 129mm wide and 1830/3700mm long
Appearance
Flooring is available either unfinished for site finishing or factory-finished with either several coats of hard-wearing polyurethane lacquer or with controlled saturation by rich penetrating oils.
Junckers and Real Oak Floors
Real Oak Floors is proud to be an authorised retailer for Junckers Ltd. We stock all of Junckers products and have regular special offers on Junckers flooring saving you money. If you have any enquiries about Junckers floors please dont hesitate to call one of our helpful sales team on 0844 848 6840
Popularity: 7% [?]
Mar 15
An often overlooked feature of any home would be the door. Doors do a lot more than just open and close, they separate rooms, surfaces and they also stop pesky things from entering your home such as the weather, the sound of your neighbour’s old Ford Cortina starting up, unwanted people or a Gazelle. They come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, styles and materials however their purpose still remains the same.
So what door is right for your home? Well whether the door is solid, glass, louvered or half glass it should complement the look and feel of the wall where it is placed so skirtings, mouldings and trims are all complemented by its presence. It should also suit your needs so if, for example, you’ve just had all of your walls sound insulated, the last thing you would want is sound to still come through to your room thanks to having a hollow-core door.
There are many kinds of doors with specific names, depending on their purpose. The most common type of door is the single-leaf door which consists of a single rigid panel which fills the doorway. There are numerous variations on this design such as the double-leaf door or double doors. Below is a list of some of the door types available.
Since its introduction during the great housing boom, the Hollow-core door consists of 2 thin plywood or hardwood faces with supports between to keep the door rigid, these are often made from cardboard. These doors are light and cheap but are poor at sound insulation and are prone to damage. However they provide a flush face for paint or staining and are easily installed or replaced.
Because solid wood doors are not as budget sensitive as these hollow-core doors, manufacturers started to develop the engineered wood door. These doors are faced with a high-quality wooden veneers which are placed upon a core made from either high-density fiberboard/hardboard with higher quality engineered doors may use hardwood sticking (the pieces that go between the panels) to the sides and below – called the stiles and the rails. Top quality doors will also have hardwood support where screwholes are located for good adhesion without stripping. These doors, like solid wood doors, come in raised panel and flat panel styles. They can be stained or painted but typically have veneered faces that are suitable for staining.
What a typical door consists of
Once you have chosen your door you will want to finish it (providing it hasn’t already been done for you!) For the best protection you should first apply a basecoat to all surfaces of the door – ensuring maximum protection. Once this has been done you will need to seal the end grain of the wood at the top and bottom of the door stiles as well as all joints before finally applying 2 coats of Top Coat to ensure you have a fantastic durable finish
Depending on the weather conditions Oak doors generally need a recoat every year, although with hardwood doors it is recommended to check the finish every six months and recoat as necessary.
We hope that this information has helped you in choosing the right doors for your home and given you some help in finishing your doors.
Popularity: 6% [?]
Laying laminate flooring is easy. However it’s important that all materials and steps are properly prepared for. The following guide gives step by step laying instructions. You should first verify which sub-floor you want to fit your Krono Original laminate flooring onto because the individual floorings are not suitable for every type of sub-floor.
Fitting laminate on screed
The floor must be absolutely level, dry, clean and firm. It is very important to sand down and fill any unevenness of more than three millimetres over one metre. You must use PE foil as a moisture barrier.
Fitting laminate on wooden planks
Loose floorboards must be fixed and uneven surfaces should be smoothed out to ensure a flat, firm surface to fit on. Fit the Krono Original laminate flooring at right-angles to the lengthwise direction of the wooden planks. You may not use PE foil on wooden sub-floors.
Laminate on wooden boards
Loose wooden boards must be fixed and any unevenness levelled out. The boards must be firmly connected to the sub-floor so that there is no creaking later.
Fitting laminate on PVC or linoleum floorings
These types of old flooring must be removed.
Fitting laminate flooring on hot water underfloor heating
Please ask a trusted heating specialist to heat your floor until it is dry. They have the necessary skills and records. A surface temperature of 25 degrees Celsius is advisable; you should never exceed 28 degrees Celsius. Old flooring must be removed.
Residual moisture
The screed should never exceed the following residual moisture values:
1.) Cement screed: With underfloor heating 1.8 percent CM; without underfloor heating 2 percent CM.
2.) Anhydride screed: With underfloor heating 0.3 percent; without underfloor heating 0.5 percent CM.
Before fitting your laminate flooring please make sure you go through these checklists.
A.) Tools checklist
You should have the following tools ready to hand at all times when fitting your Krono Original laminate flooring:
B.) Materials & accessories checklist
Please also note that additional transmitted sound insulation is necessary for laminate floorings without S.A.S (Sound Absorb System). Under certain circumstances you may also need Clickguard or a comparable joint seal, joint sealing compound and glue/bonding agent.
Before fitting: Store the packs of flooring for 48 hours under the same climatic conditions as for fitting.
An important requirement for installation and long durability of the laminate floor is a room climate of around 20° Celsius and a relative humidity of 50 to 70 percent. The sub-floor must be absolutely level, dry, clean and firm.
When fitting on a mineral sub-floor such as concrete, cement screed, anhydride screed or stone tiles you must measure the moisture first. The screed should never exceed the following residual moisture values:
1.) Cement screed: With underfloor heating 1.8 percent CM; without underfloor heating 2 percent CM.
2.) Anhydride screed: With underfloor heating 0.3 percent; without underfloor heating 0.5 percent CM.
Before fitting on concrete underfloors you must fit a suitable vapour barrier underlay (Gold/Silver dune underlay) to protect against moisture. Fit the sheets with a 20 cm overlap and fix with aluminium tape.
Carpeting is not a suitable underlay; you must remove all remaining carpeting before fitting the laminate. Laminate flooring is laid as a “floating” floor; you may not fix it to the sub-floor. Please use 2 millimetre PE foam underlay or another suitable underlay, maximum 3 millimetres thick, as transmitted sound insulation for floorings without S.A.S impact sound insulation. Please lay the sheets in the same direction as the panels. You should lay opened packs of flooring immediately.
Generally you have three options for fitting laminate flooring:
1.) Fast, glue-free laying
2.) Laying with Clickseal or comparable joint sealing. This ensures the floor is permanently protected against the effect of moisture from above. The floor can be nevertheless be taken up again and relaid.
3.) Laying with glue also provides permanent protection against moisture; however, the work is more time-consuming and complicated and the flooring can no longer be reused.
Laying Laminate
If the walls are not straight, please trace the line of the wall onto the first row of panels and saw the panels accordingly. Before laying the panels measure the depth of the room first. If the last row of panels has a width of less than 5 centimetres you must evenly distribute the remaining measurement between the first and last row of panels so that both rows are cut to size with the same panel width.
Always maintain a 12-15 mm distance from walls, heating pipes, columns, door stoppers etc. You can use spacing wedges to fix this distance. Expansion joints (at least 2 cm wide) are needed if the laying area is more than 8 m long or wide. Please also note that these are also required when laying flooring continuously over more than one room. Here the laying areas have to be interrupted in the area of the door frames. To this end, use profiles from our range. These movement joints can be professionally covered using the appropriate profiles.
Tip: Lay the panels lengthwise in line with the main light source!
Start laying in the left-hand corner of the room. The protruding lower groove cheek should be facing the layer. Lay the 1st row of panels by joining together the first two, and then each further panel, with an installation aid (panel off-cut with lengthwise tongue profile). Tip: In general, you should set the fitting aid lengthwise in the area of the two head joints and then finally align the elements. This prevents damage when sealing the panels.
Now knock the panel to be laid, in a flat position, with the flat of your hand until a pre-latching effect is achieved over the whole width of the panel.
To do this the chock is placed on the panel lengthwise to the head joint. Please ensure the tapping block protrudes by around 5 – 10 millimetres beyond the edge. This ensures the surfaces of both panels joint flush with each other. Repeat the above procedure to lay the whole of the first row of panels. Use spacing wedges to ensure a 12 -15 millimetre distance is maintained from the wall!
Start the second row left-hand side by inserting the long tongue side of the panel at a 30 degree angle slant into the bottom groove cheek of the panels that have already been laid (the 1st row) and twist it in and downwards with light pressure. Begin each new row with the remaining piece (at least 20 centimetres long) of the previous row. The space between the transverse joints of one row of panels and the next should be at least 40 centimetres.
The following panels are first inserted on the lengthwise side and then just before lowering the head side is pressed tightly against the previous panel until the overlays joint together.
Now tap the flat panel with the palm of your hand in the area of the transverse joint until a locking-in effect is achieved across the whole panel width. Then lock the head joints by lightly hitting them with the hammer and chock. Use the fitting aid too. Lay all the remaining panels by repeating the given sequence.
If necessary, close the transverse joints by tapping them from the side with a suitable tapping block. To cut the last row in the panel to size, rotate it through 180 degrees; place it with the decor side facing upwards next to the already laid row (groove cheek to groove cheek). Allow for the wall spacing on the end face. Mark the panel and saw off. To avoid splintered edges the décor side must be facing downwards if you use an electric compass saw or circular saw to cut the panels. Otherwise saw the panels with the décor facing upwards. If necessary use the drawbar to fix the last panel in a row. After laying panels remove the spacing wedges.
Holes, which are 3 centimetres larger than the pipe diameter, must be cut out for heating pipes. Saw out a V-shaped “adapter piece”, glue, fit into place and fix with a wedge until the glue has hardened. Then cover the cut-outs with radiator rosettes.
Please shorten wooden door frames so that an element with impact sound insulation fits under it, so that the laminate flooring can move without restriction here too if the room’s climate changes.
For a perfect finish at a wall, fix the skirting board clips at 40 – 50 centimetre spacings along the wall, and then attach the matching skirting boards suitably cut to size.
Laying with Krono Twin Clic
Start laying the panels in the left-hand corner of the room. Lay the first panel with its tongue side facing the wall and use spacer wedges to ensure the correct edge spacing. Insert a second panel into the end (short side) with an angle of 30 degrees in the groove profiling of the preceding first panel and then put down flat on the floor. Ensure the lengthwise edges are aligned, are not offset and form a straight line. This is necessary to be able to insert the panels in the lengthwise profiling without joints when laying the 2nd row.
If a wall is uneven and the distance from it is partly too large or too small as a result, please trace the line of the wall onto the first row of panels and saw the panels accordingly. Add further panels until you reach the end of the 1st row.
To fit/cut the last panel in the row to size, rotate it by 180° and place it, with the decor side facing upwards, next to the already laid row (groove cheek next to groove cheek) and the wall side. Allow for a distance of 12 – 15 mm from the wall at the end (short side). Mark the panel length and saw off. To avoid splintered edges the decor side should be facing downwards if you use an electric compass saw or circular saw to cut the panels. Otherwise saw the panels with the décor facing upwards. Begin each new row with the remaining piece (at least 20 cm long) of the previous row. Start the second row with a half-panel or the rest of the 1st row. Ensure the panel is not smaller than 30 cm and not longer than 95 cm. The joint offset (transverse joint offset) must be at least 30 centimetres from row to row.
Position the panel piece of the second row so that the lengthwise sides of the panels in the 1st and 2nd row lie parallel on top of each other but are not clicked into position. I.e. the tongue side of the 2nd row lies on the groove side of the 1st row. Before clicking into place, position the other panels up to the end of the 2nd row. Repeat the procedure for the 1st row. If the complete 2nd row is lying next to the 1st row, it is raised by approx 2 centimetres on the left-hand side, on the lengthwise side (tongue side) facing into the room.
The tongue of the 2nd row of panels slips into the groove of the 1st row in the raised area. When the panels are lowered again the click connection locks into place. Repeat this procedure along the whole of the 2nd row (”zip” method), until the 1st and 2nd row are laid together free of joints and with no height differences. When connecting the first and second row, always ensure the lengthwise sides of the panels are laid without an offset. The remaining rows can then be added as for row 2; ensure you allow for an adequate transverse joint offset.
Expansion joints (at least 2 centimetres wide) are needed if the area to be laid is more than 8 metres long or wide. Please also note that these are also required when laying flooring continuously over more than one room. Here the laying areas have to be interrupted in the area of the door frames. To this end, use profiles from our range. These movement joints can be professionally covered using the appropriate profiles.
Tip: Lay the panels lengthwise in line with the main light source!
If the floor is to be glued or a joint seal is to be applied, sufficient white glue type D3 or Clickseal must be placed on the upper tongue cheek of each panel (1 x lengthwise side and 1 x short side of each panel). After approx. 10 minutes, push off any surplus glue emerging on the surface when it is dry using a plastic filling knife or scraper. Completely remove any residues using glue remover, a non-scratch pad and/or clean, hot water.
When using Clickseal, follow the instructions for use. After laying the panels remove the spacing wedges. Holes 3 centimetres larger than the pipe diameter must be cut out for heating pipes. Saw out a “fitting piece”, glue, fit into place and fix with a wedge until the glue has hardened. Then cover the holes with radiator rosettes. Shorten wooden door frames so that a panel with impact sound insulation and 2 -3 millimetre gap fit under them.
For a perfect finish, fix the skirting board clips at 40 – 50 centimetre spacings along the wall, and then attach the matching skirting boards suitably cut to size.
Popularity: 8% [?]
Site conditions are extremely important and can make all the difference to a timber floor. The overall fabric (walls, floors, timber etc) of the building should be thoroughly dried out so that there are no visible signs of moisture or condensation. All wet work(concrete, plastering etc) must be completed and thoroughly dry before you even think of having the flooring delivered. It is crucial that any newly built or extended environment is dehumidified by either running the heating system for a prolonged period with good ventilation or alternatively a dehumidifier can be used.
The effects of heating and climate on stability
Unfinished boards generally need a light sanding with a finishing orbital sander and 120-150 grit paper. Vacuum to remove all dust and then using a finish of your choice seal the floor. Such as:
Osmo hard wax oil: very similar to treatex but with a slower rate of drying. Very easy to re-oil and to spot repair.
Bona Traffic: A 2pack waterborne 100% polyurethane floor lacquer, ideal for commercial and domestic areas subject to extremely high levels of use or where a very matt finish is required. Coverage = approximately 45-50m2 per 4.5ltr + .5ltr pack. Apply with a BonaKemi roller or other suitable applicator which must be dry when used.
Bona Mega: Single pack waterborne 100% polyurethane oxygen cross linking wood floor lacquer, ideal for commercial and domestic areas subject to heavy wear. Coverage approximately 45-50m2 per 5ltr can.
Always have a dust-attracting mat at entrance sites; this will prevent any sharp stones or dirt scratching the floor.
In a domestic situation a California mop will keep floors clean and dust free. Always vacuum, sweep or dry mop the floor before you clean with a maintenance product. Use felt pads on the feet of furniture to protect the floor from excessive scratching. We do have a comprehensive list of maintenance products in stock and we will give you all the advice, help and products you will need to keep your floors looking good.
In a commercial location a full maintenance schedule is available in many situations the manufacturer of the product sealing the timber will talk to and train the cleaning staff. Felt pads or other forms of protection need to be used on the feet or base of furniture to protect from excessive scratching of the floor. Heavy scratching will break seal of the lacquer causing damage to the timber by the ingress of dirt and moisture from cleaning.
If you maintain your floor, the original seal should remain intact and so should alleviate the need for re-sanding and sealing. This can be achieved through using polishes on lacquered floors and regular oiling/cleaning of oiled floors.
Nail down method – onto existing floor boards, plywood, chipboard, floor joists or batons
Suitable products:
All Engineered and solid wood floors.
Once the room has been measured and an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub floor and walls checked and the sub floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat: -
For solid boards over 160mm wide we recommend that you follow the instructions above with additional use of wooden adhesive if over concrete, flooring grade chipboard/ply needs to be installed.
nail down method
Onto plywood or chipboard (with no under-floor heating) or onto concrete (with no under-floor heating)
Suitable products:
All solid wood and engineered wood floors.
Wood blocks and hand made panels
For installation over concrete – please follow the additional preparation instructions as detailed below:
For all installations a minimum of one coat of primer should be used
For sub-floors with a RH greater than 2% (and less than 5%) you will need to use two coats of primer
For sub-floors with an RH greater than 5% please call for our specific recommendations
Once the room has been measured an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub-floor and walls checked and the sub-floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat:
glue down method
Onto plywood, chipboard or concrete – with no under-floor heating
Suitable products:
All engineered and solid wood floors
Never float a solid wood floor
Once the room has been measured and an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub-floor and walls checked and the sub floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat:-
floating method
Popularity: 9% [?]